lsanderson | Entries tagged with food

From Pizza to Dip, Chips and Popcorn, Pickle Is Summer’s Big Flavor
For people with a sweet-and-sour tooth, there’s never been a greater pick of pickle-flavored possibilities, thanks to pickle spice.
By CHRISTINA MORALES

Food Is Identity. For Korean Chefs Who Were Adopted, It’s Complicated.
Raised in the U.S., they’re exploring a heritage they didn’t grow up with through restaurant cooking — and finding both fulfillment and criticism.
By ELYSE INAMINE

How to Cook in a Vacation Rental (and Still Enjoy Your Vacation)
The most enjoyable meals on a trip may just be the ones you make yourself with these tips for planning, shopping and using up every ingredient.
By Ali Slagle

A Creamy, Spicy Dip Unlike Any Other
The Houston chef Dawn Burrell brings her biography to everything she cooks, like her creamed collard greens spiked with chile sauce.

By BRYAN WASHINGTON
Recipe: Creamy Collard-Greens Dip With Shito

FRONT BURNER
Four Cheeses That Can’t Be Beat
These cheeses took top honors at the American Cheese Society’s annual competition.
"In first place was Whitney, a Raclette-style cheese from Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro Bend, Vt. Second place went to two cheeses: Flagsheep, a semihard blend of cow and sheep milks by Beecher’s Handmade Cheese in Seattle; and Bamboozle, a washed-rind blend of goat and cow milks from Rodeo Farm & Dairy in Allison Park, Pa. In third place was another Jasper Hill Farm cheese, Greensward, a soft-ripened washed rind beauty made in collaboration with Murray’s Cheese in New York."
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Tomato Mode
Fresh summer tomatoes lend themselves beautifully to some exceptional no-cook and low-cook meals.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

A GOOD APPETITE
Take Your Cakes to the Upside Down
You can’t beat a classic pineapple upside-down cake, but juicy peaches, plums, berries and even bananas are just waiting to step in, Melissa Clark writes.

Other fruit like stone fruit, berries and bananas can make upside-down cakes as good or even better than the usual pineapple.
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipes: Pineapple Upside-Down Cake With Pecans | Peach Upside-Down Cake | Berry Upside-Down Cake | Banana Upside-Down Cake

Watch on YouTube

WINE SCHOOL
Should Red Wines Be Served Cool?
The proper serving temperature is nuanced, depending on the style of the wine, the vintage, the weather and your own personal taste.
By Eric Asimov

WINE SCHOOL
Dry German Riesling: An Eternal Conundrum
Many people are convinced that they do not like the wines. Are they simply a niche interest, or is their obvious appeal yet to be widely understood?

Brand Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2021, 12 percent (Vom Boden, Brooklyn, N.Y.) 1 liter, $18, Dreissigacker Rheinhessen Riesling Trocken 2021, 12 percent (Schatzi, Milan, N.Y.) $22, Georg Breuer Rheingau Estate Lorch 2020, 12 percent, (Skurnik Wines, New York) $35
By Eric Asimov

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
I’m Not Ready to Go Back to Restaurants. Is Anyone?
Restaurateurs have become de facto public-health officials as Covid-19 cases spike all over the country, and it’s a problem.
By TEJAL RAO

A White Gatekeeper of Southern Food Faces Calls to Resign
John T. Edge, the director of the Southern Foodways Alliance, is urged to step down after longstanding concerns about his leadership.
By KIM SEVERSON

A Virus Walks Into a Bar …
As communities open up, it’s becoming increasingly clear that the indoor bar scene is uniquely suited to transmission of Covid-19.
By TARA PARKER-POPE

FROM THE PANTRY
This Is One Cool Cucumber Soup

Creamy, herby and drinkable, this meal is ready after a few minutes in the blender.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY
Make Cornmeal Muffins for Your Next Breakfast TreatThese sweet cakes are a great way to use whatever little bits of fruit you might have on hand.

By Melissa Clark

EAT
This Giant Blueberry Scone Is Self-Care With Butter and Flour

When the world is spinning wildly, baking can be the perfect balm.
By DORIE GREENSPAN

Chile Crisp Is Even Good With Ice Cream

J. Kenji López-Alt pays homage to an unusual and delicious combination that has circulated online.
By J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT

FRONT BURNER
Beluga, Farm-Raised in America

Marky’s, a caviar dealer, now sells beluga raised in at an aquafarm in Florida.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

A GOOD APPETITE
How to Host a Socially Distanced Barbecue
Depending on where you live and your comfort level, you might be able to gather together. Here’s how to do it safely.

For this dinner, the food is cooked on a grill, and each guest pulls a piping-hot serving off the fire with their own utensils to minimize risk.
By Melissa Clark

THE POUR
Black Wine Professionals Demand to Be Seen
It’s an old story, of being ignored, patronized or dismissed. But for Black retailers, sommeliers, writers and winemakers, the days of invisibility are over.
By ERIC ASIMOV

The Old World Turns to a New World Spirit: Rye
Distillers in Scotland and across Europe have started making their own versions of a whiskey long associated with North America.

Kalle Valkonen, the head distiller at Kyro Distillery Company in Finland. Although rye whiskey has traditionally been made in North America, European producers like Kyro are starting to make their own versions.
By Evan Rail

FRONT BURNER
A Vodka for Our Time

Quarantine Vodka, a new spirit from San Diego, is meant for the home bar and is named for pandemic life.
Quarantine Vodka, $27.99, flaviar.com/quarantine-vodka.
By Florence Fabricant

Crossposts: https://lsanderson.livejournal.com/3835305.html

NONFICTION
Are You Ready to Eat Meat Grown in a Lab?

At the laboratories of the Israeli company, Redefine Meat, which is using 3D printing to replicate the sensory experience of eating a steak. Credit...Corinna Kern/Bloomberg

At the laboratories of the Israeli company, Redefine Meat, which is using 3D printing to replicate the sensory experience of eating a steak.
By Bee Wilson

SQUARE FEET
Dining in the Street? As Restaurants Reopen, Seating Moves Outdoors
Cities are accelerating applications and waiving fees to allow alfresco dining, but the moves are disrupting neighborhoods and cutting much-needed tax revenue.

Sidewalk dining in East Hampton, N.Y. Local officials around the country are allowing eating establishments to expand onto patios and parking lots, and even city sidewalks and streets.
By Jane Margolies

As Travel Resumes, Wineries, Cooking Schools and Others Get Creative
Distilleries, cooking schools, wineries and food halls from California to South Minneapolis are adjusting to social distancing and hygiene in a new era of travel.

Flowers Vineyard in Sonoma County, Calif., is utilizing its outdoor space for a largely “touchless” experience.

One thing that the distilleries are well stocked in? Hand sanitizer. “We make our own … heck, we sell the stuff!” Mr. Erisman said.

Transitioning to hand sanitizer production was a major initiative at Du Nord Craft Spirits, a microdistillery based in South Minneapolis and the first black-owned distillery in the United States. Run by a husband-and-wife team, Chris and Shanelle Montana, Du Nord produces vodka, gin and whiskey and has a cocktail room. The Montanas were starting to think about reopening midsummer when mass protests surrounding the death of George Floyd overtook the neighborhood.

“We are very involved in the South Minneapolis community and we wanted to play our part,” said Shanelle Montana. “We were handing out hand sanitizer and water to the crowd.”

As the protests continued, the Montanas began putting contingency plans in place, especially as violence increased. The warehouse space was broken into, but the resulting small fires were promptly extinguished by their sprinkler system. The cocktail room was spared — Ms. Montana believes that was because the employees wrote “black-owned business” on the space’s windows.

Ms. Montana is heartened by the support they have received from the community in cleaning up and repurposing the warehouse as a temporary food pantry. Their next steps are to renovate the building.

“We’re making sure that any space we have will be able to adapt to whatever Covid restrictions are required,” Ms. Montana said. Perhaps more pressing in their future plans is a commitment to reinvesting in their community and existing as a healing gathering space. “In some ways, we have a clean slate to reimagine what it could be.”

By Lauren Sloss

As Meat Plants Stayed Open to Feed Americans, Exports to China Surged
While lobbying to keep operating during the pandemic, the U.S. industry sent a record amount of pork to a country vital to its growth.

About 117,000 metric tons of pork produced in the United States in April was sent to China.Credit...Jenn Ackerman for The New York Times

About 117,000 metric tons of pork produced in the United States in April was sent to China.
By Michael Corkery and David Yaffe-Bellany

Our Best Fourth of July Recipes
Here’s what you need to make the most of the holiday.

Erin Jeanne McDowell’s Berries and Cream Icebox Cake. Credit...Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Erin Jeanne McDowell.

Erin Jeanne McDowell’s Berries and Cream Icebox Cake.
By Margaux Laskey

A GOOD APPETITE
Crunchy, Creamy and Just Sweet Enough
Juicy sugar snap peas are quickly blanched, then tossed with a creamy yogurt-feta dressing for a light but rich summer salad.

Sugar snap peas with yogurt, feta and dill.Credit...David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Maggie Ruggiero.

Sugar snap peas with yogurt, feta and dill.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY
Make a Compound Butter, and Use It on Your Next Meal
Add herbs and some alliums to a stick of butter for a lot of flavor.

Roasted chicken thighs dotted with a ramp-and-thyme compound butter.
By Melissa Clark

EAT
This Cajun Corn Dish Screams ‘Summer’

Maque choux.Credit...Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times

Maque choux.Credit...Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times

Maque choux.
By Gabrielle Hamilton

Sweet, Tender and Studded With Strawberries
This cousin to spoonbread and pudding cake is best served warm, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Strawberry spoon cake.
By Jerrelle Guy

WINES OF THE TIMES
Why Wine? Why Burgundy? Why Now?
By Eric Asimov

SMALL BUSINESS: OWNING THE FUTURE
A Barware Company for the Pros Adds Amateurs to the Mix
When its equipment sales to bars and restaurants plummeted during the pandemic, Cocktail Kingdom successfully turned to consumers.
By Alina Tugend

Crossposts: https://lsanderson.livejournal.com/3830925.html

Breaking the Ramadan Fast in Quarantine
The evening meal is usually a time for community, but this year, Muslims have to adapt.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

From Coffee Filter to Safety Mask, in a Hurry

Melitta, the German maker of the original paper coffee filter, retooled its production to make masks. A director called the filter’s perfect fit over the face “a gift from heaven.”
"The first million went to Melitta workers and retirees and their families. Most of the second million have already been donated locally."
By CHRISTOPHER F. SCHUETZE

Pork Chops vs. People: Battling Coronavirus in an Iowa Meat Plant
After President Trump’s executive order, meat plants are reopening. Can they do so without endangering their low-wage workers and their communities?
By ANA SWANSON, DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY and MICHAEL CORKERY

What to Do With 50 Pounds of Potatoes? The Quandaries of Bulk Buying
The pandemic has turned many cooks into big-volume shoppers, and left them puzzling out how to manage a bursting pantry of ingredients.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

Uber Said to Be in Talks to Acquire Grubhub
A deal would unite two large players in food delivery as more people order in meals during the pandemic.
By MIKE ISAAC and KATE CONGER

Opinions
The rise and fall of Alison Roman
By Molly Roberts
Editorial Writer

Small Farms in N.Y. Are Experiencing a Surprising Boom. Here’s Why.
When the restaurants closed, factory farms lost their customers. Local produce is suddenly in demand.
By CHARITY ROBEY

If You Can Boil Water, You Can Make Dinner
With a few additions and smart timing, a simple pot of boiling water can become a complete meal.
By ALI SLAGLE

THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS
An Intimate Look at Italy’s Saffron Harvest

In the Abruzzo region of Italy, harvesting the lucrative spice is a centuries-old tradition, infused with a deep-seated passion for the land and its history.
By SUSAN WRIGHT

Eating in Xi’an, Where Wheat and Lamb Speak to China’s Varied Palate
In the city’s Muslim Quarter, meals are a celebration of globalization and ethnic diversity — and a lasting defense against erasure.
By LIGAYA MISHAN

FROM THE PANTRY
The Coziest Vegetable-and-Sausage Soup for Those Chilly May Days

Make a big pot, brimming with roots and greens from the crisper, for a little bit of comfort.
By MELISSA CLARK

We Say Potato
David Tanis has three new recipes for all those Yukon Golds you have lurking in the fridge: for patatas bravas, potato salad and a spiced potato soup.
By SAM SIFTON

FRONT BURNER
Sea Urchins Star in This Food Film

A new documentary, now available to stream, looks at the history and habitat of the delicacy.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Chocolate and Cheese, if You Please

Websites help shoppers find mail-order cheeses, chocolates, farmers and purveyors.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The Best Baked Beans

Ali Slagle’s cheesy, spicy black bean bake is a great feed, and even better with a little bit of crisp bacon crumbled on top.
By SAM SIFTON

Make Ice Cream, in a Mason Jar
If you are over quar-baking, iced confections might be the next thing.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

For Lemon Lovers
Tart, floral and intensely lemony, Alison Roman’s low-and-slowish cooked salmon is revelatory.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

11 of Our Best Weekend Reads
Joanna Gaines on empire building. A look at the future of travel. Walks that help us cope. Val Kilmer. And more.
By KALY SOTO

No Yeast at the Store? No Problem. It’s Everywhere in Your Home.
You just need to corral and nurture the stuff, which should be easy for anyone with some time and patience.
By HENRY FOUNTAIN

The T List: Five Things We Recommend This Week
Iced cookies too exquisite to eat — and more.

You Don’t Need Whiskey for an Old-Fashioned, or Vodka for a Cosmo

The classic formulas work just as well with many things you may already have in your bar.
By REBEKAH PEPPLER

EAT
A Bloody Mary Mix That Is as Good Virgin as It Is Spiked
Tomato juice doctored up with spices is a remarkable workhorse. I use it to brace myself for work or to unwind when I’m escaping.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

‘Instead of Coronavirus, the Hunger Will Kill Us.’ A Global Food Crisis Looms.

The world has never faced a hunger emergency like this, experts say. It could double the number of people facing acute hunger to 265 million by the end of this year.
By ABDI LATIF DAHIR

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
The Reclusive Food Celebrity Li Ziqi Is My Quarantine Queen

In isolation, the D.I.Y. fantasy world of the Chinese YouTube star is a dreamy escape, and a lesson in self-reliance.
By TEJAL RAO

Safe Dining? Hard to Imagine, but Many Restaurants Are Trying
Though widespread reopenings may be a long way off, chefs and health officials have begun studying how a post-pandemic restaurant might look.

The chef Pano Karatassos at Kyma, one of the places in Atlanta the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group is planning to reopen soon.
By Kim Severson

VOICES
A Mother, a Pandemic and Scorched Rice

“You have an American amount of rice,” my mother told me as news of the coronavirus intensified. “Go get the biggest bag you can find.”
By LYNN JONES JOHNSTON

‘This Isn’t the Time for Caviar’: A Chef Finds New Flavors in a Pandemic

After the coronavirus lockdown, a chef in Bangkok and his migrant staff started cooking a whole new menu and delivering food to the poor.
By HANNAH BEECH

Samin Nosrat Wants Us to Make Lasagna Together

The “Salt Fat Acid Heat” author has long gathered people around a table. But what will happen when the festivities move to that sometimes-terrible place, the internet?
By SAMIN NOSRAT

The Community Cookbook Is Reborn for a Time of Scarcity and Sharing

Cobbled-together home recipe collections were once the province of church groups and Scout troops, but now they’re uniting Americans of all stripes.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

This Focaccia Isn’t Your Garden-Variety Flatbread
For some, sourdough is the baking king of social media. For others, there are these beautifully decorated focaccia, dotted with vegetables.

Hannah Page, a home baker and high school teacher in Raleigh, N.C., calls herself “the bread fairy.” She’ll leave loaves for friends on their doorsteps.
By Amelia Nierenberg

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Help Is On the Way, Restaurants Are Told. But Will It Work?
Owners of many small, independent restaurants were passed over by a federal loan program. Now they fear that a new round may not solve their problems.
By PETE WELLS

The Food Chain’s Weakest Link: Slaughterhouses
A relatively small number of plants process much of the beef and pork in the United States, and some of them have closed because workers are getting sick.
By MICHAEL CORKERY and DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY

In Poland, Communist-Era Restaurants Are Perfect for the Moment
The simple cafes known as milk bars have regained popularity in recent years. Under lockdown, they’re providing affordable food and the comfort of nostalgia.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

How Coronavirus Infected Some, but Not All, in a Restaurant
A limited study by Chinese researchers suggests the role played by air currents in spreading the illness in enclosed spaces.
By KENNETH CHANG

A Food Snob’s Food Tour Conversion

Michael Ruhlman, the author of best-selling cookbooks and an accomplished cook, didn’t need a guide. Or did he?
By MICHAEL RUHLMAN

FRONT BURNER
More Shelf-Stable Foods From Patagonia

The company has expanded its Provisions line to include pasta, grains and baby food.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Ottolenghi’s Test Kitchen Is Closed. But the Recipes Keep Coming.
Away from their small North London hub, a six-member team still finds a way to share recipes, and feed loved ones.
By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

EAT
When You Need a Break From Beans, Crab on Toast Is the Answer

After my wife and I both lost our jobs, we diligently conserved our resources — until we didn’t. Then a splurge brought us back to life.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

A Hill of Beans

Pair them with rice, or with pasta, or as part of an avocado salad, or forgo them all together, and head to the grill.
By SAM SIFTON

FROM THE PANTRY
Turn Nearly Anything Into a Meal With This Simple Sauce

Salmon stars in this tonnato, an extremely simple sauce traditionally made with tuna, that lifts rich meat and crisp raw vegetables alike.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY
You’ll Never Guess the Secret Ingredient in This One-Bowl Cake

Spoiler: It’s mayonnaise, but you’ll never taste the tanginess.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY
Add Some Tuna to Your Puttanesca

Throw a can into this classic pasta dish for a little more body.
By MELISSA CLARK

11 New Cookbooks Worth Buying, Even in Quarantine
Our favorite releases of the season, selected by Food reporters and editors from The New York Times.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES

More Melty Cheese
Indulge in small ways, with a creamy, cheesy potato gratin, or choose something bright like salmon with peas and radishes.
By JULIA MOSKIN

This Simple Five-Ingredient Pasta Has Loads of Flavor

You don’t need much to yield a lot of deliciousness — just a creamy base and a willingness to experiment.
By ALEXA WEIBEL

ONE GOOD MEAL
The Galette Recipe One French Creative Director Grew Up On

At his grandmother’s cottage in Brittany, Pierre-Alexis Delaplace of Kerzon would wait, somewhat impatiently, for this savory treat.
By NICK MARINO

Three-Ingredient Cookies, Fresh From Your Pantry

Bake your way to these sweet snacks using ingredients you’re likely to have on hand.
By DANIELA GALARZA

How to Find (and Discuss) Natural Wines
These bottles are made in small lots and are difficult to find. But here are five importers and five American producers to seek out, and some terminology to know.
By ERIC ASIMOV

Nina Balducci, Who Shaped a Famed Grocery Store, Dies at 91
She gave Balducci’s its polish and weathered an operatic family battle over the store’s ownership.

Nina Balducci on the cover of a 1993 catalog for Balducci’s. She helped design the store’s logo and shopping bags and created a successful mail-order business.
By Kim Severson

Sirio Maccioni, Whose Le Cirque Drew Manhattan’s Elite, Dies at 88
Dash, charm and matinee-idol looks helped make Mr. Maccioni an unusual sort of celebrity in New York City’s restaurant scene.

Sirio Maccioni in 1982. His fine dining restaurants in Manhattan drew an international following that included royalty, film stars, jet-setters and socialites.
By William Grimes

Crossposts: https://lsanderson.livejournal.com/3809001.html

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Is My Takeout Risking Lives or Saving Restaurants?
Online orders and no-contact pickup can be an economic lifeline, but someone still has to make the food.
By TEJAL RAO

‘I Just Need the Comfort’: Processed Foods Make a Pandemic Comeback
Shoppers, moved by nostalgia and hunting for longer shelf lives, are returning to old standbys like Chef Boyardee and Campbell’s soup.
By JULIE CRESWELL

Passover Under Lockdown: Israeli Jews Revise the Rituals
Why is this night different from all other nights? Israelis celebrate a festival of freedom under isolation and shelter-in-place orders.
By ISABEL KERSHNER

SHELTERING
How to Put Your Pantry in Order (and Stop Wasting Food)
Step one: Start by making a mess. Here’s what to do after that.
By TIM MCKEOUGH

The Lure and Lore of Corned Ham, a Salty Slice of North Carolina

Oven roasted corned hams are eye-popping and delicious. The leftover meat keeps for several weeks and can be used in many dishes, a plus in this time of home isolation.
Holidays bring a hankering for a traditional dish that the chef Bill Smith has devoted himself to making popular again.
By BRETT ANDERSON

A GOOD APPETITE
Everything Is Negotiable in This Asparagus Salad

You could use any kind of nuts or semifirm cheese in this nutty, cheesy bright spring salad. You could even lose the asparagus.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY
Garlicky Braised Greens for When That Vegetable Craving Hits

This brothy, flavorful dish may be just what you’re looking for after all those baking projects and beans.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY
Let This One-Bowl Poundcake Soothe You

Citrus-scented and speckled with cornmeal, this cake is excellent toasted and buttered for breakfast.
By MELISSA CLARK

15 Wines Under $15: Inexpensive Bottles for Stay-at-Home Drinking

These intriguing wines are sometimes quirky and often unusual. All are delightful, whether with a meal tonight or as gifts to those who could use one.
By ERIC ASIMOV

THOSE WE’VE LOST
Anita Fial, Who Carried the Banner of Exotic Food, Dies at 87

Ms. Fial worked to burnish the reputation of mangoes, avocados, radishes and celery, among other produce.
By SAM ROBERTS

Crossposts: https://lsanderson.livejournal.com/3803493.html

TRILOBITES
Neanderthals Feasted on Seafood, Seabirds, Perhaps Even Dolphins
Scientists say that a discovery in a seaside Portuguese cave further challenges popular images of Neanderthals as meat-eating brutes.
By NICHOLAS ST. FLEUR

TALK
David Chang Isn’t Sure the Restaurant Industry Will Survive Covid-19
‘I’m not being hyperbolic in any way: Without government intervention, there will be no service industry whatsoever.’
By DAVID MARCHESE

New Orleans Restaurants, Used to Disasters, Reckon With Something Worse
The dining and bar scene, so central to the city’s identity, emerged strong from Hurricane Katrina. But the coronavirus crisis is different.
By Brett Anderson

Restaurants Find Hope in Delivering Donated Meals to Hospitals
As Americans pitch in to order meals for beleaguered health care workers, the deliveries can be a lifeline for restaurants and food trucks as well as hospitals.
By Pete Wells

These Days, Even a Michelin Star Chef Has to Sell Takeout
Many restaurants had been planning for a future in which delivery made up a sizable share of their business. They just didn’t expect that moment to arrive right now.
By David Yaffe-Bellany

Food Supply Anxiety Brings Back Victory Gardens
Americans were once urged to plant in every patch of available soil — and produced about 40 percent of the nation’s fresh vegetables.
By TEJAL RAO

INSIDE THE OUTBREAK
When Your Restaurant’s Star Dish Is Blamed for Spreading Coronavirus
As restaurants around the world close or retool to enforce social distancing, Hong Kong’s hot pot eateries offer a cautionary tale and some good advice.
By ELAINE YU

FRONT BURNER
An Easter Egg From Beverly Hills

AndSons, from the chocolatier Kriss Harvey, sells colorful chocolate eggs filled with layers of sweet goodness.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Tempting Pastas and Sauces From Sicily

Bona Furtuna’s line, made in the town of Corleone, includes antipasti and marinara sauces.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Knife to Add Flash to Your Kitchen

A limited-edition tool from Victorinox, the makers of Swiss Army knives, combines a santoku blade with Middle Eastern-style steel.
Only $600!
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The T List: Four Things We Recommend This Week
A postcard from an elusive desert landscape — and more.

EAT
This Broccoli-Dill Pasta Has a Hippie Twist. Your Kids Will Love It.

A quick purée, seasoned with lemon and garlic, is a kind of delicious all-purpose dip, sauce and spread.
By TEJAL RAO

Stress Baking More Than Usual?
Confined to their homes, Americans are kneading dough.
By ALEXANDRA MARVAR

A Few Pantry Staples for a Buttery, Flaky Treat

You don’t need buttermilk on hand to make biscuits: Just about any soured milk works. Melissa Clark can teach you how.
By MELISSA CLARK

One Pot of Rice, Endless Possibilities

This pantry staple can be transformed into so many meals. Here’s how to push it from side dish to star.
By ALEXA WEIBEL

A Dinner-Worthy Grilled Cheese
A basic grilled cheese doesn’t feel like dinner, but it can when you stuff it full of caramelized onions.
By JULIA MOSKIN

An Omelet With an Unexpected Creamy Filling: Tahini
Cheese is the typical omelet filling, but for a similar richness that’s also dairy-free, try tahini.
By MELISSA CLARK

How to Freeze Just About Everything
Wondering how you can make the most of your freezer and your food? Melissa Clark can help.
By MELISSA CLARK

Sardines and Celery: A Perfect Pairing

When you tire of sardines on toast, this crunchy salad is a great alternative for the tinned fish.
By Melissa Clark

Lentils, Rice, Caramelized Onions and a Dinner to Remember

Adapted from a Middle Eastern mujadara, this streamlined take falls somewhere between a soup and a stew.
By Melissa Clark

18 Cookbooks for Comfort
In this uncertain time, here are the cookbooks Food reporters and editors turn to for reliably delicious results.
By MARGAUX LASKEY
March 26, 2020

Alison Roman’s Seder Table
Celebrating Passover, whether it’s alone, virtually or with those in your home, feels more essential than ever. These adaptable recipes can help.
By Alison Roman

A GOOD APPETITE
The Best Matzo? It’s Homemade
This version may not be kosher for Passover, but it’s delicate, airy and quick to make.

This easy matzo has potato chip appeal.
By Melissa Clark

Chicken, Artichokes and a Beloved Moroccan Passover Dish
Esther Soussan Berman passed away in 2010, but her recipe, for golden chicken thighs and fresh artichokes, still has a place on her family’s holiday tables.

Saffron and cinnamon flavor this chicken and artichokes dish.
By Joan Nathan

What to Cook This Weekend

Project recipes are particularly fine for these long days indoors: Make no-knead rolls or focaccia, or take the time to simmer some stock.
By SAM SIFTON

You Deserve a Good Lunch

Step away for half an hour today, if you can, and make yourself a turkey and apple sandwich, an easy pea soup or an omelet, using Jacques Pépin’s technique.
By SAM SIFTON

What to Cook This Week

Pasta with white sausage sauce, a spicy white bean stew, kimchi soup are just a few of the very good things you can make this week.
By SAM SIFTON

THOSE WE’VE LOST
Floyd Cardoz, 59, Dies; Gave American Fine Dining an Indian Flavor

He was the first chef born and raised in India to lead an influential New York City kitchen, at Tabla. He died in the coronavirus pandemic.
By JULIA MOSKIN

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Floyd Cardoz Showed How to Honor a Cuisine by Bending It
The chef, who died Tuesday, created Indian-American dishes that surprised and still linger in the memory.
By PETE WELLS

Crossposts: https://lsanderson.livejournal.com/3801012.html

Fire Blight Spreads Northward, Threatening Apple Orchards
Growers in northern states are combating virulent outbreaks of a disease as seasons grow warmer, orchards have been reconfigured for higher yields and new varieties may be more vulnerable
By JIM ROBBINS

CHOICE TABLES
Paris Might Be the Best City for Italian Food (Outside Italy)
From experimental aperitivo bars to pizza labs to Michelin-starred bistros, cool Italian establishments are filling the French capital, and Parisians are flocking to them.
By SETH SHERWOOD

The French Fries Are Doing Just Fine
After a weak harvest for many potato farmers in the United States and Canada, there were concerns about shortages of the fast food staple. But supplies aren’t likely to run out anytime soon.
By JACEY FORTIN

F.D.A. Nominee Clears Senate Panel
As a teen vaping and health crisis dominates public concerns, the Food and Drug Administration has been without a permanent commissioner since April.
By SHEILA KAPLAN

Eating My Way Through Vietnam’s Most Livable City
Facing rain, the 52 Places Traveler skips Danang’s famous beaches in favor of street food and the buzz of a rapidly growing city.

Danang is famous for seafood, served fresh in large open-air restaurants steps from the beach.
By SEBASTIAN MODAK

These Are the Best Baking Cookbooks of 2019

A mix of sophisticated flavors and exacting techniques sets these six dessert-focused books apart.
By Melissa Clark

12 Stunning Cookies That Will Impress Everyone You Know
Recipes and Styling by SUSAN SPUNGEN

"12 Christmas Cookies That Will Impress Everyone You Know | NYT Cooking" (Watch on YouTube)

EAT
How to Bake the Perfect Madeleine

Good is too easy. These toasty Earl Grey-flavored teacakes are an astounding delight.
By DORIE GREENSPAN

FRONT BURNER
The Snack You Need in Your Life
Flock Rotisserie Chicken Chips come in three flavors and are hard to resist.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Chocolate Heels and Other Confections
To celebrate a new chocolate factory, Cipriani has opened a temporary shop with fashion-forward edible gifts.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Fanciful Mochi With a French Twist

Michael Laiskonis, the former Le Bernardin pastry chef, has come up with some new flavors for Mochidoki.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
In Bowling Green, an Alsatian Holiday Market
The Alsatian tourist board is setting up a Christmas market for several weeks in December.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Meal Caught in Time
At Harvard’s Peabody Museum, a new exhibition explores American social history through food.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

Permission Granted!

Take a break from cooking, and make yourself a party board.
By SAM SIFTON

These Cocktails Are Garbage. Yum!
Fancy alcoholic drinks made with food scraps are Trash Tiki’s way of pushing a more sustainable bar scene.
By RINA RAPHAEL

In the New World of Whiskeys, Australia Strives to Stand Out
While distillers around the globe imitate Scotch, Australians are innovating to create something distinctive.

Carlie Dyer, a distiller at the Starward Distillery in Melbourne, examining one of the company’s whiskeys.
By Clay Risen

Gary Regan, Maestro of Mixology and Cocktail Culture, Dies at 68

A British-born son of publicans, he became a bartender in New York, a saloonkeeper, an author of 18 books and a columnist and commentator.
By SAM ROBERTS

André Daguin Dies at 84; Chef Made Gascony (and a Dish) Famous

His menu, most notably the grilled duck breast, made a region of southwest France a required stop for traveling food lovers.
By WILLIAM GRIMES

Crossposts: https://lsanderson.livejournal.com/3760748.html

Chicago Chain Kept Other Hawaiian Restaurants From Using ‘Aloha Poke’ Name
A Chicago-based poke chain sent cease-and-desist letters to other restaurants using “Aloha Poke” in their names.
By Jacey Fortin

The Freshest Ideas Are in Small Grocery Stores
As big supermarkets struggle, a new crop of local groceries are innovating to serve niche audiences and advance social causes.
By Kim Severson

What Is a Genetically Modified Crop? A European Ruling Sows Confusion
In Europe, plants created with gene-editing technologies will be stringently regulated as G.M.O.’s. But older crops whose DNA has been altered will be left alone.
By Carl Zimmer

HEADS UP
Madrid Chefs Rethink the City’s Classic Cuisine
A strong contingent of rising culinary stars has emerged in the Spanish capital, adding a needed dose of personality to Madrid’s contemporary dining scene.

Triciclo is among a fresh crop of restaurants in the Spanish capital.
By Paola Singer

WHAT TO COOK
Peak Avocado

Breakfast salad.
By Sam Sifton

FYI: But on another note, the USDA also informs us that consumption of avocados has skyrocketed since 2000, from two pounds per person to seven pounds per person. Needless to say, the explanation for this is no mystery at all: avocados are delicious and everyone should eat more of them. Why Did We All Start Eating More Vegetable Oil When George Bush Was Elected President?
KEVIN DRUM

CITY KITCHEN
Not Your Childhood Chicken Salad
Paired with a miso dressing, this take on the classic is a far cry from those cafeteria versions, plopped on plates with an ice cream scoop.

This summery dish of chicken with miso dressing makes for a delightful cold lunch or supper.
By David Tanis
Recipe: Sesame-Miso Chicken Salad

A GOOD APPETITE
A Pizza That Lets the Mozzarella Shine
A pie as you may know it, it’s not. But good things happen when torn chunks of fresh buffalo mozzarella meet roasted eggplant.

This roasted eggplant pizza is topped with chunks of buffalo mozzarella, which soften with the pie’s residual heat.
By Melissa Clark
Recipe: Roasted Eggplant and Buffalo Mozzarella Pizza

FRONT BURNER
A Mild-Mannered, but Sophisticated Midwestern Cheese
Roth Monroe is creamy, with fruity notes that would pair nicely with a glass of Sauternes.

This cheese is named after the town where it is made.
By Florence Fabricant

Meet Caulilini, a Lacy New Cauliflower
This new vegetable has stems like broccoli and florets that are lacier than cauliflower florets.

By Florence Fabricant

Deep in the Birthplace of Cuban Rum and the Daiquiri
Far from the tourists in Havana lies Santiago de Cuba. There, rum became a refined drink, and its signature cocktail still thrills.

Eduardo Corona, center, is a bartender at El Traguito, a bar below the Museo del Ron in Santiago de Cuba.
By Clay Risen
Recipe: Santiago-Style Daiquiri

A Lesser Known Wine of Sicily Benefits From Globalization
By Eric Asimov

WINE SCHOOL
3 American Rieslings to Drink Right Now

By Eric Asimov

TRENDING
Four Wineries Bringing New Energy and New Design to Napa Valley
These new wineries are shaking up the tourist scene in Napa Valley, with interesting spaces, intimate experiences, and an emphasis on dining and culture.

The wine tasting lounge at The Prisoner Wine Company, newly renovated and appointed in modern, contemporary décor by architect Matt Hollis.
By Shivani Vora

Crossposts: https://lsanderson.livejournal.com/3595950.html

‘Whole Foods Effect’: When Small Food Makers Get the Call to Go Big
By AMY HAIMERL

Food for Retaining Thought
By C. CLAIBORNE RAY

Foods Loaded With Sugar, Salt and Fat? Bring It

By STEPHANIE STROM

Satay, a Sizzling Restaurant Favorite Easily Made at Home

City Kitchen
By DAVID TANIS
Recipe: Pork Satay With Thai Spices and Peanut Sauce

Chicken and Artichokes Partner Well in a Garlicky Braise
A Good Appetite
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe: Braised Chicken With Artichokes and Olives

15 Great Recipes for Now!

What to Cook
By SAM SIFTON

Your Next Lesson: Austrian Riesling

Wine School
By ERIC ASIMOV

20 Wines for Under $20: The Spring Edition

The Pour
By ERIC ASIMOV
( Read more... )

Raise a Glass to Shakespeare

Drink
By ROSIE SCHAAP
Recipes: What-You-Will Punch | Serpent’s Tooth | Blood-Orange Oleo-Saccharum

Grab a Sharp Knife for Better Flavor
By DAVID TANIS
Recipe:

Onion Confit

When Cooking, Invest Time. Or Work. Not Both.
By MARK BITTMAN
Recipes:

Shortcut Choucroute
Spaghetti and Drop Meatballs With Tomato Sauce

Magic, With Four Main Ingredients
A Salad Dressing Recipe to Rule Them All
By Julia Moskin
Recipe:

Mustard-Shallot Vinaigrette

Our Favorite Kitchen Gadgets
By THE NEW YORK TIMES

Staying Cool When the Fat Hits the Fire
The Fundamentals of Pan-Frying, Sautéing and Searing
By KIM SEVERSON
Recipe:

Seared Scallops With Hot Sauce Beurre Blanc

Wine as the Supporting Player in an Ensemble Cast at Home
A Guide to Drinking Wine at Home

How That Meal Got to the Table
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Recipe:

Seared Fish With Asian Mushroom Ragout

Veteran Bon Appetit Writer Named as Editor in Chief of Saveur
By CHRISTINE HAUGHNEY

Weeknight Dinner Success Starts With Lemon, Olive Oil and Salt
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe:

Pasta With Fried Lemons and Chile Flakes

The Secret to Last-Minute Tart: Keep Pastry Dough in the Freezer
By MARTHA ROSE SHULMAN
Recipes:

Sweet Tart Dough
Plum Tart

The Ultimate Cuban Comfort Food: Picadillo
Recipe:

Picadillo

The Secret History of Mexican Cooking Was Written by Women
FOOD, TRAVEL BY JEFF GORDINIER

Fighting Poisons With Bacteria
Going Inside the Rice Microbiome

In Search of the Perfect Taco
Recipes:

Shepherd's Tacos (Tacos Al Pastor)
Chicken Enfrijoladas (Enfrijoladas de Pollo)

Figs
Recipes:

Fig and Almond Cake
Lamb and Fig Kebabs with Honey and Rosemary

If Desserts Could Wear Tattoos
Brooks Headley’s Cookbook ‘Fancy Desserts’ Doesn’t Do Fancy
Recipe:

Easy Ice Cream Sandwich

Deciphering the Menu
Decoding a Menu at Root & Bone

Making Romescada, the Catalan Fish Stew
Recipe:

Catalan Stew With Lobster and Clams

A Slow Flow From Down Under
Australian Chardonnays Rated by the Wine Panel

An Uzbek Specialty, for a Special Occasion
Plov, a Specialty of Uzbekistan, Is Ready for Rosh Hashana
Recipe:

Bukharan Plov With Beef, Carrots and Cumin Seeds

For a Holiday, Sweet Kisses Spice
For Rosh Hashana, Roast Chicken With Honey
Recipes:

Sweet and Spicy Roast Chicken

Should a Wine List Educate or Merely Flatter You?

In Oregon, Truffles Are No Match for Wet Noses

Sasha, foreground, found an Oregon black truffle for her owners, Erik Campen and Kim Hickey.
By NICK CZAP
Published: August 7, 2012
REDLAND, Ore.

THE forest air was cool and the light translucently green, sifted through the Douglas-fir canopy above and refracted by plumes of sword ferns that sprang from the forest floor. There was a muffled galumphing, a blur of golden fur, and then another, as Sasha and Ashleigh, two golden retrievers, bounded by off-leash in a kind of dog nirvana, followed closely by their owners, Kim Hickey and Erik Campen.

LETTER FROM PARIS

It was not until then that meat became a key part of the diet of aristocrats. Bear paw was a dish appreciated by King Zhou, the dynasty’s last king, who made his reputation as a torturer, a drinker and a host of extravagant orgies.

The recipe was straightforward: 1 bear paw, 2 ounces of honey, 1 teaspoon of salt, 20 ounces of chicken broth,1/3 ounce of ginger and 7 ounces of grain alcohol.

The paw was to be peeled and cleaned, coated in a thick layer of honey, cooked in a pot at low heat for an hour, rinsed, then simmered for three hours in a pot with the chicken broth and seasonings on the embers of a fire.

It was the prep that threw me: “Clean the paw with paper. Don’t use water that might contaminate it. Put some lime in a bowl, then add a thick layer of fried rice. Place the bear paw on the rice and cover it with another layer of rice. Put a lid on the bowl and seal it with lime.

“The bear paw cannot be eaten immediately after it is cut off. It is necessary to let it go rancid for one or two years before cooking.”

Who knew? Chinese Bear Paws Tickle the French

A GOOD APPETITE

Never Say ‘No’ to a Tomato Vine

Tomato, fresh fig and blue cheese salad.
By MELISSA CLARK
Published: August 3, 2012

I’M afraid to even say this out loud because I don’t want to jinx it. But a few weeks ago, at the very beginning of tomato season, I ate a perfect heirloom.

Recipes
Tomato Bread Salad With Chorizo and Herbs
Cherry Tomato Caesar Salad
Tomato, Fresh Fig and Blue Cheese Salad
Tomato Tonnato

SPROUTS
Palates, Like Children, Grow

Wade Burch gives Addison, Brie and Hailey, above from left, a hands-on lesson in corn shucking as they make corn soup.
By ELAINE LOUIE
Published: August 3, 2012

“I FIND it inconceivable that my daughter won’t eat what I cook,” said Wade Burch, the 46-year-old executive chef at 11 restaurants owned and managed by Merchants Hospitality, including Neely’s Barbecue Parlor on the Upper East Side.

He and his wife, Lisa, a freelance publicist, 42, have three daughters, Hailey, who just turned 8; Brie, 6; and Addison, 5. And when he says “my daughter,” he is speaking of any one of the three, since whatever he cooks will usually please one or two but seldom all. At their sprawling two-story house here in North Jersey, a trifecta is rare.

WHAT WE EAT
Asked to Get Slim, Cheese Resists
By HENRY FOUNTAIN
Published: August 6, 2012

MILWAUKEE — In the centuries that Americans have been making cheese, they have gotten very good at it, producing world-class Cheddars and chèvres, to name just two varieties. But more recently, cheese making has been something of a struggle.

Under pressure to reduce sodium and saturated fats in American diets — especially those of children — the cheese industry has tried to make products with less salt or fat that consumers will like.

It has not had great success. Moar

Marcus Samuelsson, a Chef, a Brand and Then Some

Marcus Samuelsson greeted customers at his Red Rooster Harlem restaurant.
By ADRIENNE CARTER
Published: August 4, 2012

MARCUS SAMUELSSON, dapper in a Ralph Lauren tuxedo and patterned scarf, is working the celebrity-couture crowd at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

It is a Monday evening, just around 7, and Mr. Samuelsson — hotshot chef, food impresario and kinetic force behind Red Rooster Harlem, one of Manhattan’s restaurants of the moment — is displaying his usual verve.

On the red carpet, he snaps a picture of his glamorous wife, the model and philanthropist Maya Haile, with Beyoncé. In the European sculpture gallery, he is chatting with Kanye West and several of the New York Knicks. At the Temple of Dendur, he is dining with André Balazs, the hotel owner, and Chelsea Handler.

The next morning at 10, Mr. Samuelsson, in a fresh shirt and tux trousers, is sitting in a sound studio some 60 blocks downtown, painstakingly recording the audio version of his new memoir, “Yes, Chef.” Six hours later, in a vintage, red velvet tuxedo jacket, he is overseeing an intimate dinner for 350 at Gotham Hall on behalf of Queen Silvia and Princess Madeleine of Sweden.

A Kitchen Rainbow

By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Published: August 7, 2012

Bialetti, an Italian cookware company, introduced its five-quart oval pasta pot more than 10 years ago. I loved its shape, which neatly accommodated a pound or two of long pasta like spaghetti, and its colanderlike lid, which locked in place for easy draining. I even put up with the color, metallic blue. Now Bialetti has introduced an array of hues: red, charcoal gray, purple, turquoise and orange. Meanwhile, I have discovered some uses besides preparing pasta: It will hold six ears of corn on the cob, and is ideal for steaming or boiling two 1 ¼-pound lobsters.

FOOD STUFF
Calling Jack Horner

By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Published: August 7, 2012

Greenmarkets normally win plaudits for selling produce that’s locally grown and often organic, but they also sell items that are simply not available anywhere else.

Take plums. Yes, there are local farmers who grow varieties that you will find in your supermarket, like Santa Rosa, Italian prune and Elephant Heart. Yet for juicy, Ping-Pong-to-golf-ball-size plums in yellow, green, pink, red and purple — some blushed with rouge — you need to seek out the farm stand. About a dozen kinds are on sale these days in New York Greenmarkets, though some are tailing off as others appear.

A Poolside Negroni, left, and Shaddock's Fizz, Aperol drinks at Peels.
By JENNIFER STEINHAUER
Published: August 7, 2012

JUST as the culinary cognoscenti press us into embracing certain food trends (“You will eat pork belly! Love cupcakes now! Hate cupcakes now!”) so, too, do they dictate our drinks.

First, several years ago, there was St.-Germain, the delicate elderflower liqueur. Early on, it entered a long-term relationship with prosecco: if you wanted to date the sparkling Italian refreshment, you were stuck with its French chaperon. Next up was Domaine de Canton, and every lounge drink began to taste vaguely of gingersnaps.

Coming around the corner is Cynar; get ready to explain to your dinner guests why you are making them a martini that tastes of artichoke.

But for the time being, we live in the world of Aperol, a slightly bitter, go-down-easy Italian aperitif that has found its way into bartenders’ flutes and highball glasses from Los Angeles to London. More

Recipes
Shaddock’s Fizz
Il Sorpasso
Aperol Granita

THE CURE Sam Edwards makes a ham called Surryano, a Virginia version of Serrano.

By HAROLD McGEE
Published: June 2, 2009

HAVE you ever placed a vanishingly thin morsel of rosy meat on your tongue and had it fill your mouth with deepest porkiness, or the aroma of tropical fruits, or caramel, or chocolate? Or all of the above? More

‘WHERE THEY BELONG’ Marc Ounis at the bakery he and his partner, Verlaine Daeron, opened in Colebrook, N.H., in 2001 after moving from France.
By DAN BARRY
Published: May 31, 2009

COLEBROOK, N.H.

A French couple came to town several years ago in search of something. Here, amid the swelling mountains and struggling businesses, the Red Sox hagiography and Yankee taciturnity, they were looking for just the right place to sell madeleines.

And croissants. And tarts. And long, thin loaves of French bread that all but dare you to tear at their heel before you’re out the door.

The couple converted a run-down building near an abandoned gas station into Le Rendez-Vous, a cozy bakery whose blend of bread, coffee and conversation soon charmed this rural community. After a while it seemed that the owner, Verlaine Daeron, and her partner and baker, Marc Ounis, had always been here, and always would be. More

By MARTHA ROSE SHULMAN
Published: June 1, 2009

Fresh asparagus is available in greenmarkets in the East and Midwest through the end of June. But here in California, the season began a few months ago — a great thing, as this is a vegetable I never tire of. There’s a lot you can do with asparagus besides just eating it unadorned, steamed for five minutes or — if you’ve got nice, fat stalks — roasted. Delicate, thin stalks go wonderfully with eggs, either stirred into scrambled eggs or tossed with a vinaigrette and finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. I love to toss asparagus with pasta, and I often use it in soups. Children seem to like it, too. If the family table has seen too much broccoli, asparagus makes a fine alternative. More

Recipes for Health: Asparagus Salad With Hard-boiled Eggs (June 5, 2009)
Recipes for Health: Puree of Asparagus Soup (June 4, 2009)
Recipes for Health: Asparagus Frittata With Smoked Trout (June 3, 2009)
Recipes for Health: Pasta With Asparagus, Arugula and Ricotta (June 2, 2009)

By JULIA MOSKIN
Published: April 7, 2009
FRED HUA’S banh mi pho doesBuilding on Layers of Tradition not look like a cultural revolution. But in its juicy, messy way, it is. Served at Nha Toi in Brooklyn, where he is the chef and owner, banh mi pho is stuffed with the ingredients for pho, the sacred soup of Vietnam: beef scented with star anise and cinnamon, fresh basil and crunchy bean sprouts. More