lsanderson | Ice Cream?

Ice Cream That’s a Stretch
By HAROLD McGEE

WHY do we always try to make ice creams smooth? When we add egg yolks (or cornstarch, as Mark Bittman does this week in The Minimalist) to an ice cream mix, and then stir it constantly while it freezes, we do it to block the growth of hard-edged ice crystals. But smooth ice cream doesn’t give the mouth much to do. Just for a change, how about ice cream that is coarse and crunchy? Or chewy? More

From Eggless Custard, Summer’s Iced Treat
By MARK BITTMAN

LAST winter, I wrote about custards — puddings, really — that are thickened not with eggs but with cornstarch. When the weather warmed and I started making ice cream, I wanted to see how the puddings would perform as a stand-in for my traditional six-egg-yolk custard, the base for what I’ve always believed was the best ice cream. More

Recipe: Cornstarch Ice Cream

Recipe: Fried Peach Pies With Bourbon and Cinnamon

Fine Diner to Riffraff: Tipsy Tales of 4-Star Benders
By FRANK BRUNI

THE Bordeaux was flowing, the foie gras abundant and the well-heeled epicures at Daniel were having a refined old time when suddenly all eyes turned toward a table against one wall and all conversation ceased.

Jean-Luc Le Dû, a sommelier in the restaurant, looked in that direction, too. And he saw her: the woman making like a dancer on a pole at Scores.

She stood facing the rest of the dining room. First she took off a vest or a jacket, as best Mr. Le Dû remembers. Then she went to work on her blouse. More

In Dense Stews From Senegal, Intriguing Secrets
By MATT LEE and TED LEE

WITH its spotless new white-tile floors and gleaming stainless-steel ovens, the basement kitchen of Patisserie des Ambassades, a French cafe in Harlem on Frederick Douglass Boulevard, has the fit and finish of a laboratory. On a recent weekday morning, its two resident scientists — bakers in starched white coats — glazed mixed-berry tartlets and spread crème Chantilly over thin sheets of millefeuille pastry on a long steel table. More

Recipe: Peanut Stew With Lamb (Mafe)
Recipe: Fish Stew With Rice (Thiebu Djen)