Lemons

[lsanderson]

When Life Hands You Lemons, Make Pasta and Confit
By MARLENA SPIELER

WITH winter having unmistakably arrived, the sunny presence of lemons is more welcome than ever. Each year, demand for lemons peaks with the temperatures, as millions are squeezed for lemonade. But this is the time of year you need their brightness the most.

The harvest season’s variety of diversions lets you feel free to juice lemons and dispose of the rest. But these cold days require more resourceful use of the fruit, especially with lemon prices rising and supplies reduced because of a recent freeze in California.

With plenty of sugar, and time to transform, whole lemon slices — pulp, pith, peel and all — become an intensely flavored tart. Candied, the peel gives another dimension to the pie’s lemonade flavor. An almondy shortbread is an assertive pairing. (A little lemon juice added to the dough tenderizes it.)

Lemon zest — the yellow part of the peel — adds lemon flavor without the acidity of the pulp and juice. Sprinkle it on a meaty braise, on chunks of salty feta, or crisp fritters, sweet (ricotta) or savory (spinach). Candied strips also make a delightful afternoon nibble.

Pasta has an unlikely affinity for lemon, both zest and juice. Creamy, cheesy spaghetti al limone is succulent and lively. For a more streamlined dish — no need for a recipe — toss olive oil-splashed spaghetti with lemon juice and zest, then finish with Parmesan and a hit of the fermented anchovy sauce called garum, or some anchovies melted in hot oil. It’s the umami flavor of a Caesar salad for a cold night.

Lemon is chicken’s best friend — stuffed whole inside a roasting bird with a sprig of rosemary, or wrapped in foil, baked soft and puréed for a sauce, à la Jean-Georges Vongerichten, or tossed with fennel and egg yolk for a rich, tangy sauce.

Dozens of lemon varieties are grown around the world, varying in their sweetness, astringency and fragrance, the thickness of their skin, their juiciness. In the United States one variety, the Eureka, is probably the most widely grown. More

Recipe: Spaghetti al Limone
Recipe: Chicken Breasts With Fennel and Lemon
Recipe: Lemon Confit Shortbread Tart

Comments

[shelleybear.livejournal.com]

It sounded good, but until I looked up how to get the zest off the lemon I was confused.
Now I get it.

[bibliofile.livejournal.com]

That spaghetti recipe sounds wonderful -- but the cholesterol count is high enough to please even Julia Child. Probably won't cook that one any time soon.

Lemon is one of my favorite flavors. Thanks.