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Rhubarb coctail

Flute Meets Fruit
By WILLIAM L. HAMILTON
"ABOUT a month ago I inadvertently put La Grenouille, the grande dame of French restaurants in New York, to a test. I showed up with a friend who has a passion for vintage clothing. That night, to my untrained eye, she was walking a line between Vivienne Westwood, the British punk doyenne, and Jane Avril, Toulouse-Lautrec's famous model. A cancan dancer on acid."

Madrid Restaurants

Top Madrid Chefs Draw Inspiration From a Catalan Star
By JONATHAN REYNOLDS

"FERRAN ADRIÀ reigns as the Elvis of the culinary world, and his restaurant El Bulli - found in the tiny town of Roses, two hours north of Barcelona by car - is certainly its Graceland.

"Not unlike Michel Guérard's nouvelle cuisine in the 70's, Paul Prudhomme's Cajun cuisine in the 80's, or Alice Waters's Californian of the last three decades, Mr. Adrià's scientific approach has dominated the international restaurant scene for more than 10 years, sprouting dozens of disciples. Armed with more philosophy than a French filmmaker, these chefs believe that cooking is based at least as much on science as on art.

"But while a pilgrimage to Roses is a mandatory stop for food zealots from across the world, a handful of restaurants in often-overlooked Madrid - some of them run by disciples of Mr. Adrià himself - continue to assert themselves, enticing diners with dishes as surprising as truffle-mashed-potato-and-egg or as simply deceptive as fried milk."

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