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Americana, Salted, Smoked and Sliced Thin
By R. W. APPLE Jr.

SMITHFIELD, Va.

THEY have been curing hams in this tidy little community of 7,000 on the southern shore of the broad James River, only a few miles downstream from Jamestown and Williamsburg, for 200 years and more. Queen Victoria, it is said, was an avid consumer of the local delicacy.

Holiday Tribute to the Homeland
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

"FOOD can provide sustenance even when the cupboard is bare. Memoirs of food in times of privation have been written about places as far-flung as Russia, China, Eastern Europe and the American West.

And now Hanka Sawka, a Polish immigrant, has added her voice to this canon, recalling the hearty soups and rich cakes that families managed to serve, especially for holidays like Easter, despite shortages under the Communist regime."
Recipe: Pink Purple Cabbage Salad
Recipe: Duck Stuffed With Apples and Prunes
Recipe: Stuffed Eggs


These Little Meatballs Stayed Home
By MELISSA CLARK

"There are some people who get into the restaurant business because they thrive on fulfilling their customers' desires. Then there are those like Andrew Feinberg, the chef of Franny's in Brooklyn.

The list of what he won't do at a customer's request is far longer than the list of what he will: no extra cheese, no extra sauce, no tomato sauce on the quattro formaggio pie, no cheese on the clam pie, no capers on the salami pie, and no, he doesn't have low-carb pizza, for goodness' sake."

Where the Espresso Is Truly Well Drawn
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

"The motto for Joe, a coffee cafe, is "the art of coffee." And now the art has doubled, with the opening of a branch at 9 East 13th Street; the original location is 141 Waverly Place (Avenue of the Americas). The specialty of the house is a satisfying 12-ounce latte ($3.65) decorated with a pattern of leaves or hearts."

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