Food in Today's NY Times
Oct. 20th, 2004 09:54 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
lsandersonCRITIC'S NOTEBOOK
Looks Like Diversity, but It Tastes Like Tuna
By FRANK BRUNI
"WHEN I ate my way through Vietnam early this year, I never encountered tuna tartare. But fashionable, upscale New York City restaurants these days answer to higher authorities than ethnic fidelity. They kneel before the gods of conformity, and those gods will not be denied their tuna tartare."
Breaking Ramadan's Fast With a Family Meal
By JOAN NATHAN
"FOR many Muslims, Ramadan, the holy month that began on Friday, is a family time. "
Recipe: Iraqi Lentil Soup With Meatballs
Tempting First Ladies for a Generation
By MARIAN BURROS
"ROLAND MESNIER, recently retired as the White House pastry chef, recalls the conversation in detail: "So what are you going to do for us?" Rosalynn Carter asked him when she interviewed him for the job 25 years ago."
Recipe: Crustless Almond Pear Tartlets
THE CHEF
With a Rich Scoop of Caramel, a Bit of Pucker
By MARK BITTMAN
SEATTLE
THE buzz about hot restaurants is often focused on things that have little to do with the chef's training. Attention is paid to the restaurant's choice of ingredients, its great design or fabulous wine list, even the chef's shoes. Lost in the shuffle is what being a chef has traditionally been all about: technique and imagination. Without these two, a chef is a manager; with them, he or she is an artist.
Recipe: Chocolate Caramel Mousse
Recipe: Orange Confit
To Decorate Cupcakes, or Even the Main Course
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
"Playing with food and then serving it to giggles is the point of several new cookbooks. "Pizza Art," by Karin Niedermeier (Globe Pequot, $12.95), suggests decorating pizzas à la Picasso or Mondrian, or in Egyptian and Inca themes. A good basic pizza recipe is included."
Apples With Pedigrees Selling in Urban Edens
By DAVID KARP
LEBANON, N.H.
"IT was like seeing a duchess on the subway. There in the produce section of an Upper East Side market amid the mass-produced Red Delicious and McIntosh apples, was a display of Ribston Pippins. Their skin was a palette of red, gold and brown worthy of Rembrandt, their pale yellow flesh shockingly aromatic. "
The Endlessly Improved American Pie
By WILLIAM GRIMES
"OUT in Albuquerque, the man known as Señor Pie has a dream. Scot Robinson, to use Señor Pie's real name, sells his apple pies at truck stops, and in his wilder moments he sees a magic November eve when truckers all over the country will pick up one of his chili-spiced pies en route to a home-cooked Thanksgiving dinner."
Big and Beautiful: Lafite for 12
By ERIC ASIMOV
TACOMA, Wash.
"NOT just any bottle of wine can compel eight people to hop on planes and fly thousands of miles to drink it. But this was not just any bottle."
Looks Like Diversity, but It Tastes Like Tuna
By FRANK BRUNI
"WHEN I ate my way through Vietnam early this year, I never encountered tuna tartare. But fashionable, upscale New York City restaurants these days answer to higher authorities than ethnic fidelity. They kneel before the gods of conformity, and those gods will not be denied their tuna tartare."
Breaking Ramadan's Fast With a Family Meal
By JOAN NATHAN
"FOR many Muslims, Ramadan, the holy month that began on Friday, is a family time. "
Recipe: Iraqi Lentil Soup With Meatballs
Tempting First Ladies for a Generation
By MARIAN BURROS
"ROLAND MESNIER, recently retired as the White House pastry chef, recalls the conversation in detail: "So what are you going to do for us?" Rosalynn Carter asked him when she interviewed him for the job 25 years ago."
Recipe: Crustless Almond Pear Tartlets
THE CHEF
With a Rich Scoop of Caramel, a Bit of Pucker
By MARK BITTMAN
SEATTLE
THE buzz about hot restaurants is often focused on things that have little to do with the chef's training. Attention is paid to the restaurant's choice of ingredients, its great design or fabulous wine list, even the chef's shoes. Lost in the shuffle is what being a chef has traditionally been all about: technique and imagination. Without these two, a chef is a manager; with them, he or she is an artist.
Recipe: Chocolate Caramel Mousse
Recipe: Orange Confit
To Decorate Cupcakes, or Even the Main Course
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
"Playing with food and then serving it to giggles is the point of several new cookbooks. "Pizza Art," by Karin Niedermeier (Globe Pequot, $12.95), suggests decorating pizzas à la Picasso or Mondrian, or in Egyptian and Inca themes. A good basic pizza recipe is included."
Apples With Pedigrees Selling in Urban Edens
By DAVID KARP
LEBANON, N.H.
"IT was like seeing a duchess on the subway. There in the produce section of an Upper East Side market amid the mass-produced Red Delicious and McIntosh apples, was a display of Ribston Pippins. Their skin was a palette of red, gold and brown worthy of Rembrandt, their pale yellow flesh shockingly aromatic. "
The Endlessly Improved American Pie
By WILLIAM GRIMES
"OUT in Albuquerque, the man known as Señor Pie has a dream. Scot Robinson, to use Señor Pie's real name, sells his apple pies at truck stops, and in his wilder moments he sees a magic November eve when truckers all over the country will pick up one of his chili-spiced pies en route to a home-cooked Thanksgiving dinner."
Big and Beautiful: Lafite for 12
By ERIC ASIMOV
TACOMA, Wash.
"NOT just any bottle of wine can compel eight people to hop on planes and fly thousands of miles to drink it. But this was not just any bottle."
