Food from today's NY Times...
Oct. 13th, 2004 09:19 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
lsandersonInto Alsace via Chicago
By R. W. APPLE Jr.
CHICAGO
"LAST November, three American chefs flew to France for a surprise 80th birthday party for Paul Haeberlin, the chef for many years at the celebrated Auberge de l'Ill in Illhaeusern, a tiny riverside hamlet in Alsace, about 45 miles from Strasbourg."
A Legendary Fruit Sweetens All Courses
By NIGELLA LAWSON
"FROM the Bible, Greek and Norse legends and fairy and folk tales, the apple is enshrined in our history."
Recipe: Pork and Apple Hot Pot
Recipe: Apple Caramel Calvados Crepes
Recipe: Apricot and Apple Charlotte
Just Off India, Kissed by Europe
By AMANDA HESSER
GALLE, Sri Lanka
"THE owner of a cinnamon plantation near here, R. K. Ariyasena, greeted me with a wide smile and a handshake that felt like gravel. A farmer's handshake. It was very hot, and he was wearing the standard summer attire of Sri Lankans: not much."
Recipe: Katta Sambol
Recipe: Pittu
Recipe: Fish Curry
Recipe: Sri Lankan Dal
As Layered as the Onion
By MARK BITTMAN
"IN India many dishes are cooked in yogurt sauce. But the recipes I find most amazing begin by sautéing a load of onions. Yogurt and spices are added, and then meat — lamb or chicken — is simmered in this fragrant mixture. Although the meat is never browned, the ultimate product is as caramel-colored as if the process had begun with a roux or a gallon of jus rôti. And the taste is as complex as any braised dish cooked in Europe."
Recipe: Lamb or Chicken in Onion-Yogurt Sauce
Buy 1 Mushroom, Set the Table for 12
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Published: October 13, 2004
"The name of the immense brown ruffled mushrooms that Linda and Michael Hoffmann, right, are holding is maitake, or commonly hen-of-the-woods. These impressive specimens, which the Hoffmanns sell in the Union Square Greenmarket on Wednesdays, are delicious, with a mild but meaty flavor that suggests chicken. How to prepare them? Mr. Hoffmann, of Honey Hollow Farm in Middleburgh, N.Y., said to pull the ruffles apart as you would cauliflower florets, and sauté them in plenty of olive oil and garlic. They can be served in risotto, over pasta or plain. The big ones, hensize indeed, weighing at least five pounds, would easily serve 12 people each."
Caviar Is Coming After All
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
"CAVIAR from the 2004 catch will be arriving on the market before the holiday season after all, but how much and at what price is not clear."
ALES OF THE TIMES
Chug This? Shame on You
By ERIC ASIMOV
"I KNOW more than a few beer fanatics, and though they are fine people, almost all have an ax to grind. Why is wine, they want to know, venerated as a complex, sophisticated beverage that belongs on the dinner table of every food lover, while beer is essentially lumped with demolition derbies and monster truck pulls?"
-AND-
The obligatory polemic:
For Teresa Heinz Kerry, Food Is Personal and Political
By MARIAN BURROS
FOX CHAPEL, Pa.
"AT lunchtime in a grand old house surrounded by maples just beginning to turn, the fragrances wafting from the kitchen where Teresa Heinz Kerry taught her three sons to cook were so tempting it was difficult to concentrate on the expressionist paintings from the 1960's on the walls of the living room."
By R. W. APPLE Jr.
CHICAGO
"LAST November, three American chefs flew to France for a surprise 80th birthday party for Paul Haeberlin, the chef for many years at the celebrated Auberge de l'Ill in Illhaeusern, a tiny riverside hamlet in Alsace, about 45 miles from Strasbourg."
A Legendary Fruit Sweetens All Courses
By NIGELLA LAWSON
"FROM the Bible, Greek and Norse legends and fairy and folk tales, the apple is enshrined in our history."
Recipe: Pork and Apple Hot Pot
Recipe: Apple Caramel Calvados Crepes
Recipe: Apricot and Apple Charlotte
Just Off India, Kissed by Europe
By AMANDA HESSER
GALLE, Sri Lanka
"THE owner of a cinnamon plantation near here, R. K. Ariyasena, greeted me with a wide smile and a handshake that felt like gravel. A farmer's handshake. It was very hot, and he was wearing the standard summer attire of Sri Lankans: not much."
Recipe: Katta Sambol
Recipe: Pittu
Recipe: Fish Curry
Recipe: Sri Lankan Dal
As Layered as the Onion
By MARK BITTMAN
"IN India many dishes are cooked in yogurt sauce. But the recipes I find most amazing begin by sautéing a load of onions. Yogurt and spices are added, and then meat — lamb or chicken — is simmered in this fragrant mixture. Although the meat is never browned, the ultimate product is as caramel-colored as if the process had begun with a roux or a gallon of jus rôti. And the taste is as complex as any braised dish cooked in Europe."
Recipe: Lamb or Chicken in Onion-Yogurt Sauce
Buy 1 Mushroom, Set the Table for 12
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Published: October 13, 2004
"The name of the immense brown ruffled mushrooms that Linda and Michael Hoffmann, right, are holding is maitake, or commonly hen-of-the-woods. These impressive specimens, which the Hoffmanns sell in the Union Square Greenmarket on Wednesdays, are delicious, with a mild but meaty flavor that suggests chicken. How to prepare them? Mr. Hoffmann, of Honey Hollow Farm in Middleburgh, N.Y., said to pull the ruffles apart as you would cauliflower florets, and sauté them in plenty of olive oil and garlic. They can be served in risotto, over pasta or plain. The big ones, hensize indeed, weighing at least five pounds, would easily serve 12 people each."
Caviar Is Coming After All
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
"CAVIAR from the 2004 catch will be arriving on the market before the holiday season after all, but how much and at what price is not clear."
ALES OF THE TIMES
Chug This? Shame on You
By ERIC ASIMOV
"I KNOW more than a few beer fanatics, and though they are fine people, almost all have an ax to grind. Why is wine, they want to know, venerated as a complex, sophisticated beverage that belongs on the dinner table of every food lover, while beer is essentially lumped with demolition derbies and monster truck pulls?"
-AND-
The obligatory polemic:
For Teresa Heinz Kerry, Food Is Personal and Political
By MARIAN BURROS
FOX CHAPEL, Pa.
"AT lunchtime in a grand old house surrounded by maples just beginning to turn, the fragrances wafting from the kitchen where Teresa Heinz Kerry taught her three sons to cook were so tempting it was difficult to concentrate on the expressionist paintings from the 1960's on the walls of the living room."
