Food! Glorious Food!
Jul. 10th, 2019 08:06 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
lsandersonThe Fish Is Boneless. (Fishless, Too.)
By David Yaffe-Bellany
How a Meal Planning Service Made Me a Better Cook
Recipe planners such as eMeals and PlateJoy can wean you off prepared foods and teach you to love cooking.
By Thorin Klosowski
TRILOBITES
Could This Be the End of Frankincense?
As more uses are found for the aromatic resin, the population of trees that produce it are on the brink of collapse.
By JoAnna Klein
Beverage Companies Embrace Recycling, Until It Costs Them
They have pledged to help fix U.S. recycling, but for decades the companies have fought against “bottle bills,” which result in more bottles and cans being recycled but are costly for the industry.
By Michael Corkery
For No-Sweat Summer Cooking, Do It Sous Vide
Used along with a grill, the sous-vide machine guarantees flavorful steaks, fish and vegetables done with predictability and precision.
By Melissa Clark
CITY KITCHEN
Sweet, Sour and Ready to Top Toast
Caponata swaps eggplant for zucchini and summer squash in this easy picnic-ready recipe.
Finished with green olives and hard-boiled eggs, this caponata can be served as an appetizer, main or side.
By David Tanis
EAT
My Summer Jam: An Update of the French Fruit Tart
Tumble-Jumble Strawberry Tart.
By Dorie Greenspan
CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Where Dessert Is Much More Than an Afterthought
New Los Angeles restaurants buck the trend away from ambitious sweets, with carefully composed desserts that reward you for saving a little room.
The plated dessert is its own culinary form, and Birdie G’s rose petal pie is a striking addition to the canon.
The delicate strawberry tartine at Auburn comes with strawberry-whey granita and a froth of geranium-infused cream.
The bright, creamy passion fruit posset at Bon Temps, with ribbons of Campari jelly.
The St. Honoré dessert at Bon Temps, made with pecan mousseline and puffs of choux pastry.
By Tejal Rao
Restoring an 1806 Home to Showcase Mexican Culture (and Tequila)
Arturo Lomeli, the founder of the tequila brand Clase Azul, is restoring a house in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with the aim of promoting Mexican culture and his tequila. The traditional house is built around an interior patio.
By Shivani Vora
WINES OF THE TIMES
Albariño Finds Its Inner Beauty
Minerally, With Citrus Flavors
★★★½ Do Ferreiro Rías Baixas Albariño Cepas Vellas 2015 $50
Taut, tense, complex and deep, with great mineral flavors. Clearly benefited from extra aging. (De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, N.C.)
★★★ Adega Familiar Eladio Piñeiro Rías Baixas Albariño Envidiacochina Tête de Cuvée 2017 $24
Rich and substantial, yet tense and linear, with citrus, floral and mineral flavors. (Think Global Wines, Santa Barbara, Calif.)
★★★ Bodegas Aquitania Rías Baixas Albariño Aquitania 2017 $24
Tangy, textured, resonant and deep, with citrus and saline flavors. (Regal Wine Imports, Moorestown, N.J.)
★★★ Bodegas Palacio de Fefiñanes Rías Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes 2017 $25
Rich, textured and deeply mineral, with citrus, herbal and floral aromas and flavors. (Classic Wines, Stamford, Conn.)
★★½ Raúl Pérez Sketch Albariño 2017 $80
Deep and rich, with flavors of Meyer lemons and flowers. It’s on the edge of overripeness, but never strays over the line. (Skurnik Wines, New York)
★★½ Alberto Nanclares Rías Baixas Albariño 2017 $34
Fresh, briny and textured, with citrus, herb and mineral flavors. (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines, Fairfax, Calif.)
Best Value
★★½ Benito Santos Rías Baixas Albariño Igrexario de Saiar 2018 $18
Tense and fresh, with aromas of flowers and saline and citrus flavors. (David Bowler Wine, New York)
★★½ Leirana Rías Baixas Albariño Forjas del Salnes 2017 $30
Bright yet tightly coiled, with steely acidity; aromas and flavors of flowers and citrus. (Olé Imports, New Rochelle, N.Y.)
★★½ Bodegas La Caña Rías Baixas Albariño 2017 $20
Richly textured and deep, with lingering lime and mineral flavors. (Jorge Ordóñez Selections/Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, Mass.)
★★½ Zarate Rías Baixas Albariño Val do Salnes 2017 $22
Tangy, lively and lush with citrus and peach flavors. (The Rare Wine Company, Brisbane, Calif.)
By Eric Asimov
By David Yaffe-Bellany
How a Meal Planning Service Made Me a Better Cook
Recipe planners such as eMeals and PlateJoy can wean you off prepared foods and teach you to love cooking.
By Thorin Klosowski
TRILOBITES
Could This Be the End of Frankincense?
As more uses are found for the aromatic resin, the population of trees that produce it are on the brink of collapse.
By JoAnna Klein
Beverage Companies Embrace Recycling, Until It Costs Them
They have pledged to help fix U.S. recycling, but for decades the companies have fought against “bottle bills,” which result in more bottles and cans being recycled but are costly for the industry.
By Michael Corkery
For No-Sweat Summer Cooking, Do It Sous Vide
Used along with a grill, the sous-vide machine guarantees flavorful steaks, fish and vegetables done with predictability and precision.
By Melissa Clark
CITY KITCHEN
Sweet, Sour and Ready to Top Toast
Caponata swaps eggplant for zucchini and summer squash in this easy picnic-ready recipe.
Finished with green olives and hard-boiled eggs, this caponata can be served as an appetizer, main or side.
By David Tanis
EAT
My Summer Jam: An Update of the French Fruit Tart
Tumble-Jumble Strawberry Tart.
By Dorie Greenspan
CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Where Dessert Is Much More Than an Afterthought
New Los Angeles restaurants buck the trend away from ambitious sweets, with carefully composed desserts that reward you for saving a little room.
The plated dessert is its own culinary form, and Birdie G’s rose petal pie is a striking addition to the canon.
The delicate strawberry tartine at Auburn comes with strawberry-whey granita and a froth of geranium-infused cream.
The bright, creamy passion fruit posset at Bon Temps, with ribbons of Campari jelly.
The St. Honoré dessert at Bon Temps, made with pecan mousseline and puffs of choux pastry.
By Tejal Rao
Restoring an 1806 Home to Showcase Mexican Culture (and Tequila)
Arturo Lomeli, the founder of the tequila brand Clase Azul, is restoring a house in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with the aim of promoting Mexican culture and his tequila. The traditional house is built around an interior patio.
By Shivani Vora
WINES OF THE TIMES
Albariño Finds Its Inner Beauty
Minerally, With Citrus Flavors
★★★½ Do Ferreiro Rías Baixas Albariño Cepas Vellas 2015 $50
Taut, tense, complex and deep, with great mineral flavors. Clearly benefited from extra aging. (De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, N.C.)
★★★ Adega Familiar Eladio Piñeiro Rías Baixas Albariño Envidiacochina Tête de Cuvée 2017 $24
Rich and substantial, yet tense and linear, with citrus, floral and mineral flavors. (Think Global Wines, Santa Barbara, Calif.)
★★★ Bodegas Aquitania Rías Baixas Albariño Aquitania 2017 $24
Tangy, textured, resonant and deep, with citrus and saline flavors. (Regal Wine Imports, Moorestown, N.J.)
★★★ Bodegas Palacio de Fefiñanes Rías Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes 2017 $25
Rich, textured and deeply mineral, with citrus, herbal and floral aromas and flavors. (Classic Wines, Stamford, Conn.)
★★½ Raúl Pérez Sketch Albariño 2017 $80
Deep and rich, with flavors of Meyer lemons and flowers. It’s on the edge of overripeness, but never strays over the line. (Skurnik Wines, New York)
★★½ Alberto Nanclares Rías Baixas Albariño 2017 $34
Fresh, briny and textured, with citrus, herb and mineral flavors. (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines, Fairfax, Calif.)
Best Value
★★½ Benito Santos Rías Baixas Albariño Igrexario de Saiar 2018 $18
Tense and fresh, with aromas of flowers and saline and citrus flavors. (David Bowler Wine, New York)
★★½ Leirana Rías Baixas Albariño Forjas del Salnes 2017 $30
Bright yet tightly coiled, with steely acidity; aromas and flavors of flowers and citrus. (Olé Imports, New Rochelle, N.Y.)
★★½ Bodegas La Caña Rías Baixas Albariño 2017 $20
Richly textured and deep, with lingering lime and mineral flavors. (Jorge Ordóñez Selections/Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, Mass.)
★★½ Zarate Rías Baixas Albariño Val do Salnes 2017 $22
Tangy, lively and lush with citrus and peach flavors. (The Rare Wine Company, Brisbane, Calif.)
By Eric Asimov
