Food! Glorious Food!
May. 15th, 2019 12:59 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
American Express to Buy Resy, a Restaurant Booking Service
By Michael J. de la Merced
CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
‘Tuca & Bertie’ Explores Dark Truths in the Kitchen
A loopy new animated series about two birds also provides sharp commentary on restaurant culture.
By Tejal Rao
FRONT BURNER
These Curries Are Works of Art

The artist Rirkrit Tiravanija includes red, yellow and green curries in his latest exhibition at the Hirshhorn Museum in Washington, D.C.
By Florence Fabricant
As Swine Fever Roils Asia, Hogs Are Culled and Dinner Plans Change
By Mike Ives and Katherine Li
FOOD MATTERS
How Sourness Has Come to Dominate Our Dining Habits, and Our Discourse
From candy to kombucha to our national mood, acidity is everywhere.
?Super Hiper Ácido bubble gum from Ecuador?
By Ligaya Mishan
T.W.A. Terminal Reopens
With Food by Jean-Georges Vongerichten and More
The Paris Cafe and Lisbon Lounge are reopening with management and food by the famed chef.

By Florence Fabricant
5 PLACES
Five Places to Visit in Lima
The chef Virgilio Martínez reopened his world-famous Central restaurant in the Barranco district last June. Here, he dishes on his favorite spots.
By Sara Lieberman
1. Plaza de Armas Barranco
2. Mérito
3. Casa Caudal
4. Blu il Gelato del Barrio
5. Isolina
Samin Nosrat’s 10 Essential Persian Recipes
The author of “Salt Fat Acid Heat” and star of the related Netflix show chooses the dishes that define the cuisine for her.
By Samin Nosrat
1. Polo Ba Tahdig (Persian Rice With Bread Crust)
2. Kuku Sabzi (Persian Herb Frittata)
3. Khoresh-e Ghormeh Sabzi (Persian Herb, Bean and Lamb Stew)
4. Khoresh-e Bademjoon (Persian Eggplant and Tomato Stew)
5. Khoresh-e Fesenjoon (Persian Chicken Stew With Pomegranate and Walnuts)
6. Ash Reshteh (Persian Greens, Bean and Noodle Soup)
7. Abgoosht (Persian Lamb and Chickpea Stew)
8. Salad-e Shirazi (Persian Cucumber, Tomato and Onion Salad)
9. Mast-o Khiar (Persian Cucumber and Herb Yogurt)
10. Faloodeh (Persian Lime and Rose Water Granita With Rice Noodles)
A Bid to Maintain One of the World’s Oldest Culinary Traditions
For the ever dwindling Parsi community of western India, food is both pleasure and heritage — and a secret language in danger of dying out.
By Ligaya Mishan
FRONT BURNER
Make the Corn Fritters From Wayan

Inspired by an Indonesian street snack, this appetizer from Cédric Vongerichten is easy to whip up at home.
By Florence Fabricant
More Flavor From a Cottage Cheese
The cottage cheesemaker Good Culture has a new offering along with a sour cream.
By Florence Fabricant
WINE SCHOOL
Soave Classico, More Famous Than Understood
By Eric Asimov
FRONT BURNER
A Brandy That Nods to Pisco
Frísco, a spirit from Northern California, is distilled from wines made with Muscat de Alexandria grapes.
By Florence Fabricant
FRONT BURNER
A Better Cocktail Glass

The Austrian glassmaker Riedel has released a line of barware, tweaked for cocktail enthusiasts.
By Florence Fabricant
WINE SCHOOL
The Value of Burgundy, Regardless of the Price
By Eric Asimov
By Michael J. de la Merced
CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
‘Tuca & Bertie’ Explores Dark Truths in the Kitchen
A loopy new animated series about two birds also provides sharp commentary on restaurant culture.
By Tejal Rao
FRONT BURNER
These Curries Are Works of Art

The artist Rirkrit Tiravanija includes red, yellow and green curries in his latest exhibition at the Hirshhorn Museum in Washington, D.C.
By Florence Fabricant
As Swine Fever Roils Asia, Hogs Are Culled and Dinner Plans Change
By Mike Ives and Katherine Li
FOOD MATTERS
How Sourness Has Come to Dominate Our Dining Habits, and Our Discourse
From candy to kombucha to our national mood, acidity is everywhere.
?Super Hiper Ácido bubble gum from Ecuador?
By Ligaya Mishan
T.W.A. Terminal Reopens
With Food by Jean-Georges Vongerichten and More
The Paris Cafe and Lisbon Lounge are reopening with management and food by the famed chef.

By Florence Fabricant
5 PLACES
Five Places to Visit in Lima
The chef Virgilio Martínez reopened his world-famous Central restaurant in the Barranco district last June. Here, he dishes on his favorite spots.
By Sara Lieberman
1. Plaza de Armas Barranco
2. Mérito
3. Casa Caudal
4. Blu il Gelato del Barrio
5. Isolina
Samin Nosrat’s 10 Essential Persian Recipes
The author of “Salt Fat Acid Heat” and star of the related Netflix show chooses the dishes that define the cuisine for her.
By Samin Nosrat
1. Polo Ba Tahdig (Persian Rice With Bread Crust)
2. Kuku Sabzi (Persian Herb Frittata)
3. Khoresh-e Ghormeh Sabzi (Persian Herb, Bean and Lamb Stew)
4. Khoresh-e Bademjoon (Persian Eggplant and Tomato Stew)
5. Khoresh-e Fesenjoon (Persian Chicken Stew With Pomegranate and Walnuts)
6. Ash Reshteh (Persian Greens, Bean and Noodle Soup)
7. Abgoosht (Persian Lamb and Chickpea Stew)
8. Salad-e Shirazi (Persian Cucumber, Tomato and Onion Salad)
9. Mast-o Khiar (Persian Cucumber and Herb Yogurt)
10. Faloodeh (Persian Lime and Rose Water Granita With Rice Noodles)
A Bid to Maintain One of the World’s Oldest Culinary Traditions
For the ever dwindling Parsi community of western India, food is both pleasure and heritage — and a secret language in danger of dying out.
By Ligaya Mishan
FRONT BURNER
Make the Corn Fritters From Wayan

Inspired by an Indonesian street snack, this appetizer from Cédric Vongerichten is easy to whip up at home.
By Florence Fabricant
More Flavor From a Cottage Cheese
The cottage cheesemaker Good Culture has a new offering along with a sour cream.
By Florence Fabricant
WINE SCHOOL
Soave Classico, More Famous Than Understood
By Eric Asimov
The three wines I recommend are:
Prà Soave Classico Otto 2017 (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.) $17
Pieropan Soave Classico 2017 (Pieropan U.S.A., Hayward, Calif.) $20
Suavia Soave Classico Monte Carbonare 2017 (Leonardo LoCascio Selections/Winebow, New York) $25
If you cannot find these, try Inama, Coffele, Gini, Ca ’Rugate, I Stefanini or Filippi. The three producers I recommended also make other cuvées, which are well worth trying, particularly those from Pieropan, though they will be more expensive.
FRONT BURNER
A Brandy That Nods to Pisco
Frísco, a spirit from Northern California, is distilled from wines made with Muscat de Alexandria grapes.
By Florence Fabricant
FRONT BURNER
A Better Cocktail Glass

The Austrian glassmaker Riedel has released a line of barware, tweaked for cocktail enthusiasts.
By Florence Fabricant
WINE SCHOOL
The Value of Burgundy, Regardless of the Price
By Eric Asimov