Food! Glorious Food!
Apr. 26th, 2017 09:29 amUnicorn Food’ Is Colorful, Sparkly and Everywhere
'By LIAM STACK
Unilever Buys Sir Kensington’s, Maker of Fancy Ketchup
By STEPHANIE STROM
OMG! AnAmerican British-Dutch company makes Marmite? Say it ain't so!
Baking Is All in the Hands

By DORIE GREENSPAN
Recipe: Buttermilk-Biscuit Shortcakes
The Single Most Important Ingredient
By SAMIN NOSRAT
Recipes: Buttermilk-Marinated Roast Chicken | Caesar Salad
Fish That’s Fast, Easy and Sometimes Even Fancy
A Good Appetite
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe: Trout With Chive Butter
Three Ways to Let Fresh Asparagus Shine

City Kitchen
By DAVID TANIS
Recipes: Charred Asparagus With Green Garlic Chimichurri | Steamed Asparagus With Pistachios and Brown Butter | Shaved Asparagus Salad With Ginger and Sesame
A Reusable Pouch for Wine on the Go

Front Burner
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
$7
Economical Aluminum Skillets With Heft

Front Burner
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
$36-$60
Cookbook Offers a Taste of London’s Famed Firehouse

Front Burner
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
$50
Cooking Got Barbara Lynch Out of South Boston, and Brought Her Back

By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipe: Roast Chicken in a Butter Crust
The Secrets of Jamie Oliver’s Chicken in Milk

Eat
By SAM SIFTON
Recipe: Jamie Oliver’s Chicken in Milk
American Brandy Is Surging, Even in Whiskey Country
By CLAY RISEN
A Few American Standouts
American brandies are nowhere near as well known as their French cousins. Here are some bottles that offer a good introduction.
OSOCALIS RARE ALAMBIC BRANDY, Soquel, Calif., 80 proof, $45
A blend of varietals with a heavy dose of pinot noir, sémillon and colombard, aged for about six years. Citrus and spice notes dominate.
COPPER & KINGS BUTCHERTOWN BRANDY, Louisville, Ky., 124 proof, $55
A monster spirit drawn from a wide variety of grapes, bottled at cask strength and redolent of dark fruits and caramel.
CATOCTIN CREEK 1757 VIRGINIA BRAND, Purcellville, Va., 80 proof, $50
Made from a blend of Virginia-grown grapes and aged for at least two years in French oak barrels, it is the most whiskeylike of the bunch, with notes of vanilla, spices and stewed cherries.
FINGER LAKES DISTILLING GRAPE BRANDY, Burdett, N.Y., 90 proof, $45
Made from upstate New York grapes and aged in used American oak barrels, with hints of vanilla, stone fruits and raisins.
CHARBAY BRANDY NO. 89, St. Helena, Calif., 92 proof, $250
One of the oldest, and priciest, American brandies, No. 89 — named for 1989, the year it was distilled — is made from pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. It offers notes of banana, toasted coconut and cloves.
From the Sonoma Coast, Chardonnays of Energy and Memories
Wines of The Times
By ERIC ASIMOV
Recipe Pairing: Risotto With Peas and Sausage
Tasting Notes: Sonoma Coast Chardonnays
★★★ RIVERS-MARIE SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY JOY ROAD VINEYARD 2014 $69
Deep and energetic, with savory flavors of citrus, herbs and stony minerals.
★★★ CERITAS SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY CHARLES HEINTZ VINEYARD 2014 $75
Harmonious, rich and resonant, with aromas and flavors of citrus, flowers and minerals.
★★★ ERIC KENT SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY SANGIACOMO GREEN ACRES HILL 2014 $50
More typically Californian, but lively and well made, with flavors of tropical fruits, citrus and oak.
★★½ FLOWERS SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2014 $37
Fresh, lively and rich, with bright, tangy flavors of lemon, herbs and a touch of oak.
★★½ RIVERS-MARIE SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY B. THIERIOT VINEYARD 2014 $69
Lively flavors of citrus and minerals, but slightly okay.
★★½ JOSEPH PHELPS SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY FREESTONE VINEYARD 2013 $41
Richly textured, with aromas of hot stones and flavors of apple and lemon.
★★ RED CAR SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2013 $31
Idiosyncratic, with savory flavors of citrus and herbs and a touch of funk.
★★ FAILLA SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2014 $32
Richly textured and lively, with flavors of citrus, nuts and herbs.
★★ RAMEY SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2013 $32
Bright, tangy and clean, with flavors of lemon, herbs and a bit of oak.
★½ JOHNSON FAMILY SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2014 $17
Broad, rich and stolid, with flavors of citrus and nuts.
A Journey Through Baja California’s Wine Country
Vineyards and culinary marvels beckon in the austere backcountry of the Valle de Guadalupe in Mexico.
By ROBERT DRAPER
'By LIAM STACK
Unilever Buys Sir Kensington’s, Maker of Fancy Ketchup
By STEPHANIE STROM
OMG! An
Baking Is All in the Hands

By DORIE GREENSPAN
Recipe: Buttermilk-Biscuit Shortcakes
The Single Most Important Ingredient
By SAMIN NOSRAT
Recipes: Buttermilk-Marinated Roast Chicken | Caesar Salad
Fish That’s Fast, Easy and Sometimes Even Fancy
A Good Appetite
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe: Trout With Chive Butter
Three Ways to Let Fresh Asparagus Shine

City Kitchen
By DAVID TANIS
Recipes: Charred Asparagus With Green Garlic Chimichurri | Steamed Asparagus With Pistachios and Brown Butter | Shaved Asparagus Salad With Ginger and Sesame
A Reusable Pouch for Wine on the Go

Front Burner
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
$7
Economical Aluminum Skillets With Heft

Front Burner
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
$36-$60
Cookbook Offers a Taste of London’s Famed Firehouse

Front Burner
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
$50
Cooking Got Barbara Lynch Out of South Boston, and Brought Her Back

By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipe: Roast Chicken in a Butter Crust
The Secrets of Jamie Oliver’s Chicken in Milk

Eat
By SAM SIFTON
Recipe: Jamie Oliver’s Chicken in Milk
American Brandy Is Surging, Even in Whiskey Country
By CLAY RISEN
A Few American Standouts
American brandies are nowhere near as well known as their French cousins. Here are some bottles that offer a good introduction.
OSOCALIS RARE ALAMBIC BRANDY, Soquel, Calif., 80 proof, $45
A blend of varietals with a heavy dose of pinot noir, sémillon and colombard, aged for about six years. Citrus and spice notes dominate.
COPPER & KINGS BUTCHERTOWN BRANDY, Louisville, Ky., 124 proof, $55
A monster spirit drawn from a wide variety of grapes, bottled at cask strength and redolent of dark fruits and caramel.
CATOCTIN CREEK 1757 VIRGINIA BRAND, Purcellville, Va., 80 proof, $50
Made from a blend of Virginia-grown grapes and aged for at least two years in French oak barrels, it is the most whiskeylike of the bunch, with notes of vanilla, spices and stewed cherries.
FINGER LAKES DISTILLING GRAPE BRANDY, Burdett, N.Y., 90 proof, $45
Made from upstate New York grapes and aged in used American oak barrels, with hints of vanilla, stone fruits and raisins.
CHARBAY BRANDY NO. 89, St. Helena, Calif., 92 proof, $250
One of the oldest, and priciest, American brandies, No. 89 — named for 1989, the year it was distilled — is made from pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. It offers notes of banana, toasted coconut and cloves.
From the Sonoma Coast, Chardonnays of Energy and Memories
Wines of The Times
By ERIC ASIMOV
Recipe Pairing: Risotto With Peas and Sausage
Tasting Notes: Sonoma Coast Chardonnays
★★★ RIVERS-MARIE SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY JOY ROAD VINEYARD 2014 $69
Deep and energetic, with savory flavors of citrus, herbs and stony minerals.
★★★ CERITAS SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY CHARLES HEINTZ VINEYARD 2014 $75
Harmonious, rich and resonant, with aromas and flavors of citrus, flowers and minerals.
★★★ ERIC KENT SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY SANGIACOMO GREEN ACRES HILL 2014 $50
More typically Californian, but lively and well made, with flavors of tropical fruits, citrus and oak.
★★½ FLOWERS SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2014 $37
Fresh, lively and rich, with bright, tangy flavors of lemon, herbs and a touch of oak.
★★½ RIVERS-MARIE SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY B. THIERIOT VINEYARD 2014 $69
Lively flavors of citrus and minerals, but slightly okay.
★★½ JOSEPH PHELPS SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY FREESTONE VINEYARD 2013 $41
Richly textured, with aromas of hot stones and flavors of apple and lemon.
★★ RED CAR SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2013 $31
Idiosyncratic, with savory flavors of citrus and herbs and a touch of funk.
★★ FAILLA SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2014 $32
Richly textured and lively, with flavors of citrus, nuts and herbs.
★★ RAMEY SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2013 $32
Bright, tangy and clean, with flavors of lemon, herbs and a bit of oak.
★½ JOHNSON FAMILY SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2014 $17
Broad, rich and stolid, with flavors of citrus and nuts.
A Journey Through Baja California’s Wine Country
Vineyards and culinary marvels beckon in the austere backcountry of the Valle de Guadalupe in Mexico.
By ROBERT DRAPER