Food! Glorious Food!
Jan. 25th, 2017 08:24 amGrass-Fed Beef, Sold One Cow at a Time

By NICK WINGFIELD
Charred, Browned, Blackened: The Dark Lure of Burned Food

By TEJAL RAO
Recipe: Burned Toast Soup
A Popover With a Deep Secret
A Good Appetite
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipes: Buckwheat Popovers
Rice and Chicken With a French Accent

City Kitchen
By DAVID TANIS
Recipe: Baked Rice With Chicken and Mushrooms
Caroline Fleming, a Lady of London, Keeps Calm and Cooks On

Encounters
By VALERIYA SAFRONOVA
Corsican Reds, a Case Study in Wine Terroir

Wines of The Times
By ERIC ASIMOV
Tasting Corsican Reds
★★★½ COMTE ABBATUCCI CUVÉE COLLECTION ROUGE MINISTRE IMPÉRIAL 2012 $100
Perfumed with deep, spicy aromas, juicy and complex, with layered flavors of red fruits and herbs. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
★★★ U STILICCIONU AJACCIO ANTICA 2013 $32
Bright, pure and alive, with aromas and flavors of flowers, red fruits, minerals and a touch of funk. (Grand Cru Selections, New York)
★★★ COMTE ABBATUCCI AJACCIO ROUGE CUVÉE FAUSTINE 2013 $37
Firm and compelling, with flavors of red fruits, flowers, herbs and stones. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
★★★ DOMAINE D’ALZIPRATU CALVI PUMONTE 2013 $25
Floral, tense and juicy, with complex flavors of herbs and fruits, and a streak of iron. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York)
Best Value: ★★½ DOMAINE MAESTRACCI CALVI CLOS REGINU 2015 $20
Exuberant and refreshing, juicy, earthy and a tad rustic. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
★★½ U STILICCIONU AJACCIO SOTTU SCALA 2013 $68
Complex and savory, with flavors of red fruits and flowers, and discernible tannins. (Grand Cru Selections)
★★½ CLOS VENTURI 1769 CARCAJOLU NERU 2015 $24
Young and juicy, with an almost exotically floral aroma. (Wineberry America, Valley Cottage, N.Y.)
★★½ YVES LECCIA I.G.P. ÎLE DE BEAUTÉ ROUGE 2014 $28
Rich and exuberant, with flavors of wild cherries and stones. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
★★ GIACOMETTI PATRIMONIO CRU DES AGRIATE 2013 $20
Tannic and a bit muted, with earthy flavors of red fruits. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
★★ DOMAINE VICO VIN DE CORSE 2013 $18
Light-bodied and balanced, with flavors of flowers and red fruits. (Wineberry America)
Recipe Pairing: Seared Lamb Ribs With Spicy Yogurt Sauce
Pandan, an Asian Herb, Leaps From Cakes to Cocktails

By ROBERT SIMONSON

By NICK WINGFIELD
Charred, Browned, Blackened: The Dark Lure of Burned Food

By TEJAL RAO
Recipe: Burned Toast Soup
A Popover With a Deep Secret
A Good Appetite
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipes: Buckwheat Popovers
Rice and Chicken With a French Accent

City Kitchen
By DAVID TANIS
Recipe: Baked Rice With Chicken and Mushrooms
Caroline Fleming, a Lady of London, Keeps Calm and Cooks On

Encounters
By VALERIYA SAFRONOVA
Corsican Reds, a Case Study in Wine Terroir

Wines of The Times
By ERIC ASIMOV
Tasting Corsican Reds
★★★½ COMTE ABBATUCCI CUVÉE COLLECTION ROUGE MINISTRE IMPÉRIAL 2012 $100
Perfumed with deep, spicy aromas, juicy and complex, with layered flavors of red fruits and herbs. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
★★★ U STILICCIONU AJACCIO ANTICA 2013 $32
Bright, pure and alive, with aromas and flavors of flowers, red fruits, minerals and a touch of funk. (Grand Cru Selections, New York)
★★★ COMTE ABBATUCCI AJACCIO ROUGE CUVÉE FAUSTINE 2013 $37
Firm and compelling, with flavors of red fruits, flowers, herbs and stones. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
★★★ DOMAINE D’ALZIPRATU CALVI PUMONTE 2013 $25
Floral, tense and juicy, with complex flavors of herbs and fruits, and a streak of iron. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York)
Best Value: ★★½ DOMAINE MAESTRACCI CALVI CLOS REGINU 2015 $20
Exuberant and refreshing, juicy, earthy and a tad rustic. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
★★½ U STILICCIONU AJACCIO SOTTU SCALA 2013 $68
Complex and savory, with flavors of red fruits and flowers, and discernible tannins. (Grand Cru Selections)
★★½ CLOS VENTURI 1769 CARCAJOLU NERU 2015 $24
Young and juicy, with an almost exotically floral aroma. (Wineberry America, Valley Cottage, N.Y.)
★★½ YVES LECCIA I.G.P. ÎLE DE BEAUTÉ ROUGE 2014 $28
Rich and exuberant, with flavors of wild cherries and stones. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
★★ GIACOMETTI PATRIMONIO CRU DES AGRIATE 2013 $20
Tannic and a bit muted, with earthy flavors of red fruits. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
★★ DOMAINE VICO VIN DE CORSE 2013 $18
Light-bodied and balanced, with flavors of flowers and red fruits. (Wineberry America)
Recipe Pairing: Seared Lamb Ribs With Spicy Yogurt Sauce
Pandan, an Asian Herb, Leaps From Cakes to Cocktails

By ROBERT SIMONSON