A Minneapolis Restaurant That Goes Medieval

The herring at Upton 34 is salt cured and pickled in-house over seven days. Credit Bodega Ltd.
Bites
By ROBERT LILLEGARD

The herring at Upton 34 is salt cured and pickled in-house over seven days. Credit Bodega Ltd.
Bites
By ROBERT LILLEGARD
If molecular gastronomy evokes science fiction (foams! liquid nitrogen!), Upton 43 in Minneapolis feels more like alternate history. To eat there is to imagine a world where the spice trade never really developed, a chef-driven culture built on the flavors of medieval Europe. By focusing on old-fashioned techniques like fermenting and roasting, Erick Harcey, the chef, is expanding the city’s eating scene and redefining the Swedish-American foods he grew up with.