Food! Glorious Food!
Oct. 12th, 2016 10:40 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
lsandersonWhen Do You Worry About a Picky Eater?
The Checkup
By PERRI KLASS, M.D.
Tyson Foods, a Meat Leader, Invests in Protein Alternatives
By STEPHANIE STROM
The Fight Over Transparency in the Meat Industry
By TED GENOWAYS
Why Did the Obamas Fail to Take On Corporate Agriculture?
By MICHAEL POLLAN
The Dizzying Grandeur of 21st-Century Agriculture
Photographs and Video by GEORGE STEINMETZ
Amid Hills of Wine and Truffles, a Mission to Give Fungus Room to Breathe
By GAIA PIANIGIANI
Chicken Tetrazzini, the Casserole Even Snobs Love
Eat
By SAM SIFTON
Recipe: Chicken Tetrazzini
Favorite Thanksgiving Recipes From Across Canada
By DAN LEVIN and IAN AUSTEN
Spicy Green Beans, at the Center of the Plate
A Good Appetite
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe: Green Beans With Mustard Seeds, Cashews and Coconut
America’s Pumpkin Queen Has a Request: Don’t Carve, Cook
By KIM SEVERSON
Recipes: Stuffed Baby Pumpkins | Chicken and Pumpkin with Dumplings
Six Heirloom Squash Varieties
By KIM SEVERSON
Making Sous Vide Simplify Work for You
By BRIAN X. CHEN
Why Stews Always Beat Steaks
http://
City Kitchen
By DAVID TANIS
Recipe: Italian-Style Fish Stew
How to Make Cocktails
A GUIDE BY ROBERT SIMONSON
20 Wines for Under $20: The Fall Edition
The Pour
By ERIC ASIMOV
Peter Lauer Mosel Saar Riesling Barrel X 2015, $19.99
This is a beautiful, delicate, lightly sweet riesling of the type that was classically called kabinett and is now sometimes referred to as feinherb. It’s well balanced, with flavors of apples, peaches and minerals, from an excellent vintage. I love wines like these in the spring, but who doesn’t need a little springtime in autumn? (Vom Boden, Brooklyn, N.Y.)
Domaine Trapet Alsace Pinot Auxerrois Ox 2013, $17.99
Domaine Trapet Père et Fils is an excellent Burgundy estate, and now, by virtue of a marriage, it also has an outpost in Alsace. This lovely white, made with the workhorse auxerrois grape (sometimes known as pinot auxerrois), is chalky, creamy and minerally with a rich texture, but not heavy at all. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
Louis-Antoine Luyt Chile Itata Valley Pipeño Portezuelo 2014, $18.99, 1 liter
País, as the mission grape is known in Chile, was the first European grape planted in the New World, brought by missionaries to California in the 16th century. You don’t see much wine made from mission in California, but Louis-Antoine Luyt, a Frenchman who moved to Chile, makes juicy, tart, delicious reds from old-vine grapes he finds in the southern Itata Valley. An added benefit: This is sold by the liter. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)
António Lopes Ribeiro Dão Casa de Mouraz Encruzado 2013, $18.99
Encruzado is a rare, relatively unknown white grape grown in the Dão region of Portugal, but if this bottle from António Lopes Ribeiro’s Casa de Mouraz is at all representative, it is absolutely worth seeking out. This wine is fresh and floral, light and sleek, yet structured with intriguing mineral flavors. (Savio Soares Selections, Brooklyn, N.Y.)
Gutiérrez Colosía Jerez Oloroso Sangre y Trabajadero NV, $19.99, 375 milliliters
Despite a brief bubble of interest in sherry, it remains a top value and one of the great secrets of wine lovers. Even those who’ve embraced the wonders, though, often stop with fino and amontillado. Oloroso is the great sherry frontier, and this is a wonderful example: savory, steely, deeply mineral, bone dry with a core of caramel. Serve with a dry-aged steak. (Coeur Wine Company, New York)
Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba 2014, $17.99
Nebbiolo is renowned for its complex, long-lasting, soulful Barolos and Barbarescos. Barbera is valued for its juicy, zesty reds. Which leaves dolcetto, the also-ran among the three best-known red grapes in the Piedmont region of Italy. That oversight can often make it a great value. This bottle, from a superb producer, is pure and refreshingly bitter, direct, honest and delicious. (Polaner Selections)
Domaine Zafeirakis Tyrnavos Malagousia 2015, $15.99
A new generation of Greek producers is nurturing obscure, indigenous grapes like the white malagousia. This bottle, from Christos Zafeirakis in Trynavos in the Thessaly region, is zesty, peachy and balanced, with lingering flavors that will go well with seafood. Zafeirakis’s red limniona is likewise a great value. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York)
Lise & Bertrand Jousset Montlouis sur Loire L’appétillant Brut Nature NV, $18.99
Sparkling wines from the Loire Valley, made with chenin blanc, are often wonderful values. This one, from Montlouis, is lovely: creamy, chalky and deliciously rich. It is also, as the French like to say, digestible, meaning both that it will go down very easily and will go very well with food. May I suggest chicken? (Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, N.Y.)
Foxglove Paso Robles Zinfandel 2013, $17
Bob and Jim Varner make excellent chardonnays and pinot noirs from the Santa Cruz Mountains and the Central Coast. Foxglove is the Varner winery’s second label, and the 2013 zinfandel offers an excellent taste of the Varner style: exuberant, yet well focused. This is the sort of zinfandel I love to drink in the fall, fresh and floral with plenty of spicy fruit flavors.
Jo Landron Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Le Fief du Breil 2013, $17.99
Muscadet is perennially one of wine’s great values. The region, near the mouth of the Loire River on the Atlantic, offers fascinating terroirs and excellent producers, yet attracts little attention — hence low prices. This lip-smacking wine, from the terrific Jo Landron, is creamy and energetic, full of rocky, earthy, herbal flavors. The best Muscadets are subtle, and so demand close attention, but they are well worth it. (Martin Scott Wines, New York)
La Marca di San Michele Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Superiore “CapoVolto” 2014, $17.99
Verdicchio is one of many grapes that gave Italian white wine a bad name over the years, but when done right, as with this bottle from La Marca di San Michele, it is delightful. This wine, from organic grapes grown in the eastern province of Ancona, is fresh and lively, with the flavor of apricots and a mild bitterness reminiscent of almonds. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
Banshee Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2014, $19.99
This is a rare example of a moderately priced California chardonnay with an excellent pedigree. The grapes come from the Sonoma Coast, an amorphous designation that can be meaningless, but in this case includes grapes from the superb Heintz Vineyard and the Green Valley region. Ross Cobb is a fine winemaker, and, while this is in the California style of bold fruit framed by toasty oak, it has plenty of acidity and no artifice. Bravo.
Domaine Nicolas Gonin Isère-Balmes Dauphinoises Persan Mondeuse 2013, $19.99
Thank goodness this wine exists. It comes from a little-known region in eastern France and is made from two grapes that have practically disappeared, persan and mondeuse. Yet it’s an utter joy: fresh, honest and slightly funky with warm flavors of red fruits and herbs, and only 10 percent alcohol. Knock it back with sausages and be thankful that what used to be still is. (M. F. W. Wine Company/T. Elenteny Imports, New York)
Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Beaujolais l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2014, $16.99
Whatever the season, I always crave Beaujolais. It’s a staple because it’s so versatile and delicious. Many producers are doing great work there today, but Jean-Paul Brun has been doing it for a long time. This straight Beaujolais, from one of the region’s less acclaimed terroirs, is surprisingly rich. It’s bright, earthy and joyous, great at any time. (Louis/Dressner Selections)
Giornata Central Coast Il Campo Red 2014, $19.99
This is a field blend of Italian grapes grown in California, including sangiovese, aglianico, barbera and nebbiolo. It’s bright, balanced, sunny and focused, not complex but refreshing and tremendously satisfying. It comes from the people who make Broadside, a 20 Under $20 favorite for its delicious, budget-priced cabernet sauvignon.
Borja Pérez González Ycoden Daute Isora Ignios Orígenes Listán Negro 2013, $19.99
The Canary Islands are a wonderful source for intriguing budget-priced wines. This one, made from listán negro grapes grown in Ycoden Daute Isora, the western region of Tenerife, is reminiscent of good cabernet franc, pure red fruit leavened by the strong presence of herbal flavors. It’s deep, long, brisk and lingering. (David Bowler Wine, New York)
Grochau Cellars Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Commuter Cuvée 2014, $17.99
Grochau Cellars is new to me, but judging from this bottle, it’s an excellent source for that rare treat: budget-priced pinot noir from good terroirs, grown and produced conscientiously. Commuter Cuvée shows bright aromas of red and black fruit fruits intermingled with herbs and flowers. It’s fresh, easygoing and ready to drink.
Guímaro Ribeira Sacra Tinto Mencía 2014, $16.99
If you like medium-bodied reds that combine fresh fruit flavors and a distinctive sense of place, keep in mind Ribeira Sacra and the mencía grape. This immensely satisfying bottle is fresh and earthy, with flavors of bright red fruit infused with an almost slatelike minerality. It is unoaked and direct, not intended for long aging. (A José Pastor Selection/Vinos & Gourmet, Richmond, Calif.)
Route Stock Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Route 29 2013, $19.99
Route Stock is a label owned by Wilson Daniels, a big wine importer. I wouldn’t ordinarily look to it as a source for wines (other than its imports, of course). But this is a very good, straightforward Napa cabernet sauvignon, well shaped and lightly tannic, with flavors of dark fruits, earth and herbs that are unexaggerated. How often can you find that for $20? Bring on the burgers and lamb chops.
Château Peybonhomme Les Tours Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux Quintessence de Peybonhomme 2012, $19.99
The little-known regions of Bordeaux, like Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux on the right bank of the Gironde, are often touted as sources of great bargains. I don’t often find that to be true, but this is an exception. This wine, made from biodynamically grown merlot mixed with a small percentage of cabernet sauvignon, is mouth-filling, lightly tart and, as with all good Bordeaux, absolutely refreshing. (Fruit of the Vines)
The Checkup
By PERRI KLASS, M.D.
Tyson Foods, a Meat Leader, Invests in Protein Alternatives
By STEPHANIE STROM
The Fight Over Transparency in the Meat Industry
By TED GENOWAYS
Why Did the Obamas Fail to Take On Corporate Agriculture?
By MICHAEL POLLAN
The Dizzying Grandeur of 21st-Century Agriculture
Photographs and Video by GEORGE STEINMETZ
Amid Hills of Wine and Truffles, a Mission to Give Fungus Room to Breathe
By GAIA PIANIGIANI
Chicken Tetrazzini, the Casserole Even Snobs Love
Eat
By SAM SIFTON
Recipe: Chicken Tetrazzini
Favorite Thanksgiving Recipes From Across Canada
By DAN LEVIN and IAN AUSTEN
Spicy Green Beans, at the Center of the Plate
A Good Appetite
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe: Green Beans With Mustard Seeds, Cashews and Coconut
America’s Pumpkin Queen Has a Request: Don’t Carve, Cook
By KIM SEVERSON
Recipes: Stuffed Baby Pumpkins | Chicken and Pumpkin with Dumplings
Six Heirloom Squash Varieties
By KIM SEVERSON
Making Sous Vide Simplify Work for You
By BRIAN X. CHEN
Why Stews Always Beat Steaks
http://City Kitchen
By DAVID TANIS
Recipe: Italian-Style Fish Stew
How to Make Cocktails
A GUIDE BY ROBERT SIMONSON
20 Wines for Under $20: The Fall Edition
The Pour
By ERIC ASIMOV
Peter Lauer Mosel Saar Riesling Barrel X 2015, $19.99
This is a beautiful, delicate, lightly sweet riesling of the type that was classically called kabinett and is now sometimes referred to as feinherb. It’s well balanced, with flavors of apples, peaches and minerals, from an excellent vintage. I love wines like these in the spring, but who doesn’t need a little springtime in autumn? (Vom Boden, Brooklyn, N.Y.)
Domaine Trapet Alsace Pinot Auxerrois Ox 2013, $17.99
Domaine Trapet Père et Fils is an excellent Burgundy estate, and now, by virtue of a marriage, it also has an outpost in Alsace. This lovely white, made with the workhorse auxerrois grape (sometimes known as pinot auxerrois), is chalky, creamy and minerally with a rich texture, but not heavy at all. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
Louis-Antoine Luyt Chile Itata Valley Pipeño Portezuelo 2014, $18.99, 1 liter
País, as the mission grape is known in Chile, was the first European grape planted in the New World, brought by missionaries to California in the 16th century. You don’t see much wine made from mission in California, but Louis-Antoine Luyt, a Frenchman who moved to Chile, makes juicy, tart, delicious reds from old-vine grapes he finds in the southern Itata Valley. An added benefit: This is sold by the liter. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)
António Lopes Ribeiro Dão Casa de Mouraz Encruzado 2013, $18.99
Encruzado is a rare, relatively unknown white grape grown in the Dão region of Portugal, but if this bottle from António Lopes Ribeiro’s Casa de Mouraz is at all representative, it is absolutely worth seeking out. This wine is fresh and floral, light and sleek, yet structured with intriguing mineral flavors. (Savio Soares Selections, Brooklyn, N.Y.)
Gutiérrez Colosía Jerez Oloroso Sangre y Trabajadero NV, $19.99, 375 milliliters
Despite a brief bubble of interest in sherry, it remains a top value and one of the great secrets of wine lovers. Even those who’ve embraced the wonders, though, often stop with fino and amontillado. Oloroso is the great sherry frontier, and this is a wonderful example: savory, steely, deeply mineral, bone dry with a core of caramel. Serve with a dry-aged steak. (Coeur Wine Company, New York)
Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba 2014, $17.99
Nebbiolo is renowned for its complex, long-lasting, soulful Barolos and Barbarescos. Barbera is valued for its juicy, zesty reds. Which leaves dolcetto, the also-ran among the three best-known red grapes in the Piedmont region of Italy. That oversight can often make it a great value. This bottle, from a superb producer, is pure and refreshingly bitter, direct, honest and delicious. (Polaner Selections)
Domaine Zafeirakis Tyrnavos Malagousia 2015, $15.99
A new generation of Greek producers is nurturing obscure, indigenous grapes like the white malagousia. This bottle, from Christos Zafeirakis in Trynavos in the Thessaly region, is zesty, peachy and balanced, with lingering flavors that will go well with seafood. Zafeirakis’s red limniona is likewise a great value. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York)
Lise & Bertrand Jousset Montlouis sur Loire L’appétillant Brut Nature NV, $18.99
Sparkling wines from the Loire Valley, made with chenin blanc, are often wonderful values. This one, from Montlouis, is lovely: creamy, chalky and deliciously rich. It is also, as the French like to say, digestible, meaning both that it will go down very easily and will go very well with food. May I suggest chicken? (Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, N.Y.)
Foxglove Paso Robles Zinfandel 2013, $17
Bob and Jim Varner make excellent chardonnays and pinot noirs from the Santa Cruz Mountains and the Central Coast. Foxglove is the Varner winery’s second label, and the 2013 zinfandel offers an excellent taste of the Varner style: exuberant, yet well focused. This is the sort of zinfandel I love to drink in the fall, fresh and floral with plenty of spicy fruit flavors.
Jo Landron Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Le Fief du Breil 2013, $17.99
Muscadet is perennially one of wine’s great values. The region, near the mouth of the Loire River on the Atlantic, offers fascinating terroirs and excellent producers, yet attracts little attention — hence low prices. This lip-smacking wine, from the terrific Jo Landron, is creamy and energetic, full of rocky, earthy, herbal flavors. The best Muscadets are subtle, and so demand close attention, but they are well worth it. (Martin Scott Wines, New York)
La Marca di San Michele Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Superiore “CapoVolto” 2014, $17.99
Verdicchio is one of many grapes that gave Italian white wine a bad name over the years, but when done right, as with this bottle from La Marca di San Michele, it is delightful. This wine, from organic grapes grown in the eastern province of Ancona, is fresh and lively, with the flavor of apricots and a mild bitterness reminiscent of almonds. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
Banshee Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2014, $19.99
This is a rare example of a moderately priced California chardonnay with an excellent pedigree. The grapes come from the Sonoma Coast, an amorphous designation that can be meaningless, but in this case includes grapes from the superb Heintz Vineyard and the Green Valley region. Ross Cobb is a fine winemaker, and, while this is in the California style of bold fruit framed by toasty oak, it has plenty of acidity and no artifice. Bravo.
Domaine Nicolas Gonin Isère-Balmes Dauphinoises Persan Mondeuse 2013, $19.99
Thank goodness this wine exists. It comes from a little-known region in eastern France and is made from two grapes that have practically disappeared, persan and mondeuse. Yet it’s an utter joy: fresh, honest and slightly funky with warm flavors of red fruits and herbs, and only 10 percent alcohol. Knock it back with sausages and be thankful that what used to be still is. (M. F. W. Wine Company/T. Elenteny Imports, New York)
Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Beaujolais l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2014, $16.99
Whatever the season, I always crave Beaujolais. It’s a staple because it’s so versatile and delicious. Many producers are doing great work there today, but Jean-Paul Brun has been doing it for a long time. This straight Beaujolais, from one of the region’s less acclaimed terroirs, is surprisingly rich. It’s bright, earthy and joyous, great at any time. (Louis/Dressner Selections)
Giornata Central Coast Il Campo Red 2014, $19.99
This is a field blend of Italian grapes grown in California, including sangiovese, aglianico, barbera and nebbiolo. It’s bright, balanced, sunny and focused, not complex but refreshing and tremendously satisfying. It comes from the people who make Broadside, a 20 Under $20 favorite for its delicious, budget-priced cabernet sauvignon.
Borja Pérez González Ycoden Daute Isora Ignios Orígenes Listán Negro 2013, $19.99
The Canary Islands are a wonderful source for intriguing budget-priced wines. This one, made from listán negro grapes grown in Ycoden Daute Isora, the western region of Tenerife, is reminiscent of good cabernet franc, pure red fruit leavened by the strong presence of herbal flavors. It’s deep, long, brisk and lingering. (David Bowler Wine, New York)
Grochau Cellars Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Commuter Cuvée 2014, $17.99
Grochau Cellars is new to me, but judging from this bottle, it’s an excellent source for that rare treat: budget-priced pinot noir from good terroirs, grown and produced conscientiously. Commuter Cuvée shows bright aromas of red and black fruit fruits intermingled with herbs and flowers. It’s fresh, easygoing and ready to drink.
Guímaro Ribeira Sacra Tinto Mencía 2014, $16.99
If you like medium-bodied reds that combine fresh fruit flavors and a distinctive sense of place, keep in mind Ribeira Sacra and the mencía grape. This immensely satisfying bottle is fresh and earthy, with flavors of bright red fruit infused with an almost slatelike minerality. It is unoaked and direct, not intended for long aging. (A José Pastor Selection/Vinos & Gourmet, Richmond, Calif.)
Route Stock Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Route 29 2013, $19.99
Route Stock is a label owned by Wilson Daniels, a big wine importer. I wouldn’t ordinarily look to it as a source for wines (other than its imports, of course). But this is a very good, straightforward Napa cabernet sauvignon, well shaped and lightly tannic, with flavors of dark fruits, earth and herbs that are unexaggerated. How often can you find that for $20? Bring on the burgers and lamb chops.
Château Peybonhomme Les Tours Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux Quintessence de Peybonhomme 2012, $19.99
The little-known regions of Bordeaux, like Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux on the right bank of the Gironde, are often touted as sources of great bargains. I don’t often find that to be true, but this is an exception. This wine, made from biodynamically grown merlot mixed with a small percentage of cabernet sauvignon, is mouth-filling, lightly tart and, as with all good Bordeaux, absolutely refreshing. (Fruit of the Vines)
