Food! Glorious Food! And, Big Fowl!
Nov. 20th, 2013 04:15 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
lsandersonThanksgiving Day, à la Française
By ELAINE SCIOLINO
Published: November 19, 2013
PARIS — Ask long-timers at the American School of Paris how to do Thanksgiving dinner, and you’re likely to be told the tale of the gourmet turkey. Moar
Wines for Thanksgiving: Mixing Without Trying to Match
Tasting Report: Whites
Knebel, $18, *** ½
Mosel Riesling Trocken QBA 2012
Energetic, refreshing and well textured, with pure, dry herbal and citrus flavors. (Louis/Dresser Selections, New York)
Martian Ranch, $24, ** ½
Santa Barbara County Uforic Albariño 2011
A crowd-pleaser, with sweet tropical fruit flavors, though the lingering impression is dry.
Trapet, $20, ** ½
Alsace Beblenheim Gewürztraminer 2011
Sumptuous yet harmonious, delicious for perhaps one course but not for the long haul. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
Billaud-Simon, $25, **
Chablis Fourchaume Premier Cru 2011
Tangy, with grassy, herbal flavors, dry and a bit austere. (Langdon-Shiverick, New York)
Pindar, $19, **
North Fork of Long Island Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Bracing, crisp and pleasant, though somewhat neutral in flavor.
Tasting Report: Reds
Jean-Louis Dutraive, $23, *** ½
Fleurie Clos de la Grand’Cour Vieilles Vignes 2010
Lively, bright and full of energy, with crunchy fruit flavors. Delicious now. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.))
Franck Balthazar, $22, ***
Côtes-du-Rhône 2011
Savory and pure, with classic northern Rhône flavors of herbs, smoked meats and black olives. (Savio Soares Selections, Brooklyn, N.Y.)
Fox Run, $17, ***
Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc 2010
Earthy and refreshing, with flavors of dark fruit and a pleasant bitterness.
Diochon, $20, ** ½
Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes 2011
Deep, rich and energetic, but quite tannic; perfect for Thanksgiving 2014. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
Bernard Baudry, $19, ** ½
Chinon Les Granges 2012
Juicy, with pretty aromas and flavors of smoky, spicy red fruit. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)
Essential Thanksgiving
Fennel and Lemon Turn Swordfish Into a More Complex Meal
Parsnip and Carrot Soup With Tarragon
Alex Calderwood, Creator and Face of the Unconventional Ace Hotel Chain, Dies at 47
By ELAINE SCIOLINO
Published: November 19, 2013
PARIS — Ask long-timers at the American School of Paris how to do Thanksgiving dinner, and you’re likely to be told the tale of the gourmet turkey. Moar
Wines for Thanksgiving: Mixing Without Trying to Match
Knebel, $18, *** ½
Mosel Riesling Trocken QBA 2012
Energetic, refreshing and well textured, with pure, dry herbal and citrus flavors. (Louis/Dresser Selections, New York)
Martian Ranch, $24, ** ½
Santa Barbara County Uforic Albariño 2011
A crowd-pleaser, with sweet tropical fruit flavors, though the lingering impression is dry.
Trapet, $20, ** ½
Alsace Beblenheim Gewürztraminer 2011
Sumptuous yet harmonious, delicious for perhaps one course but not for the long haul. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
Billaud-Simon, $25, **
Chablis Fourchaume Premier Cru 2011
Tangy, with grassy, herbal flavors, dry and a bit austere. (Langdon-Shiverick, New York)
Pindar, $19, **
North Fork of Long Island Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Bracing, crisp and pleasant, though somewhat neutral in flavor.
Tasting Report: Reds
Jean-Louis Dutraive, $23, *** ½
Fleurie Clos de la Grand’Cour Vieilles Vignes 2010
Lively, bright and full of energy, with crunchy fruit flavors. Delicious now. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.))
Franck Balthazar, $22, ***
Côtes-du-Rhône 2011
Savory and pure, with classic northern Rhône flavors of herbs, smoked meats and black olives. (Savio Soares Selections, Brooklyn, N.Y.)
Fox Run, $17, ***
Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc 2010
Earthy and refreshing, with flavors of dark fruit and a pleasant bitterness.
Diochon, $20, ** ½
Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes 2011
Deep, rich and energetic, but quite tannic; perfect for Thanksgiving 2014. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
Bernard Baudry, $19, ** ½
Chinon Les Granges 2012
Juicy, with pretty aromas and flavors of smoky, spicy red fruit. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)
Essential Thanksgiving
Fennel and Lemon Turn Swordfish Into a More Complex Meal
Parsnip and Carrot Soup With Tarragon
Alex Calderwood, Creator and Face of the Unconventional Ace Hotel Chain, Dies at 47
