My My

[lsanderson]

Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires Brut ’95, $160

Alongside Krug and Bollinger, this has long been one of my close-to-the-vest secret luxury craves in Champagne. Despite all the excitement about small grower/producer houses, this cuvée, the top offering from one of the larger producers, remains one the the most perfectly executed wines of the region. (It’s a shame that it’s all but ignored, and relatively difficult to find, in the United States.) A lot of Champagne seems to be about shrillness and acid, with nothing much offered on the other end. This wine, on the other hand, is a hippo in a bikini strewing fruits and flowers while perched on a unicycle balanced on a tightrope. But don’t quote me on that. Moar