
Aziza Berkouki, facing front, in the kitchen of a trade school in Villiers-le-Bel, near Paris. “I was born in the kitchen,” she said. More Photos » By STEVEN ERLANGER
Published: January 17, 2011
SARCELLES, France — In some ways, it is just a drop of costly olive oil in a turbid lake, but for 15 women from this poor Paris suburb, it is a chance for a stable and nourishing, if difficult, career. More