A Cult Winemaker Tinkers With Success

[lsanderson]

Kistler’s Sonoma vineyards now produce wines of finesse rather than power.
By ERIC ASIMOV
Published: January 11, 2011

OUT here in Sonoma County south of the Russian River, where a rolling ocean of vineyards surrounds a few surviving Gravenstein apple orchards, the growing season is typically long and warm. Grapes customarily bask in the ripening sun until they practically burst with sweetness. The challenge is to prevent the grapes from ripening too much. More