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Pirates have left the island of Ste. Marie, but the spectacular beaches remain. More Photos »
By JEFFREY GETTLEMAN
Published: December 17, 2010
IT was probably the weirdest sound I’d ever heard.

There we were, our first morning in Madagascar, breakfasting on the veranda of a jungle lodge near Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, munching on Paris-grade baguettes (Dr. Atkins beware: this country has excellent bread products), when all of a sudden a ghostly cry erupted from the thick green hills. It sounded a little like the mating call of a whale. Or someone pinching a balloon and slowly letting the air out. Or a squeaky metal wheel with no grease. I had never heard anything quite like it before: a long, haunting, melodic wail, carried through the trees.

“My God,” my wife, Courtenay, said to me, “that is otherworldly.”

Our 1 ½-year-old son, Apollo, stabbed his pudgy finger toward the mountains and blurted: “Waz zat?” More
Slide Show Madagascar’s Unique Treasures

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