The Soulful Side of Bordeaux

[lsanderson]

Jean-François Fillastre in his vineyard at Domaine du Jaugaret, a small family estate in Bordeaux whose wines are not geared to the mass market. More Photos »
By ERIC ASIMOV
Published: August 24, 2010
ST.-JULIEN-BEYCHEVELLE, France
SLIDE SHOW: Bordeaux’s More Humble Winemakers

COMPARED with the grand chateaus of the Médoc, the tiny Domaine du Jaugaret may seem irrelevant. The critics don’t score its wines, it’s barely mentioned in guides, it doesn’t play in the futures game. The winemaking facility is no more than a series of stone sheds with floors of dirt and gravel and walls covered in a mushroomlike mold. Calling it rustic would be putting it kindly. More