Chicago's Great Culinary Middle Ground
Nov. 29th, 2009 08:36 am
Kuma’s Corner is known for long waits (no reservations) and for its long list of burgers.
By PETER MEEHAN
Published: November 29, 2009
PAUL KAHAN is one of Chicago’s best chefs, and his restaurants are reliable bellwethers for what’s going on in the city’s dining scene. When Blackbird, his first restaurant, opened 12 years ago, it presaged Chicago’s rebirth as one of the planet’s most dynamic restaurant cities — a promise fulfilled by restaurants like Alinea, Schwa and L20. Mr. Kahan followed Blackbird with Avec and the Publican, restaurants that are less formal, better suited to a city that needed less pomp and polish to go with good food. More