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Petter Nilsson at work in La Gazzetta in Paris; beets with watercress coulis at La Gazzetta; Adeline Grattard at Yam’tcha.
By CHRISTINE MUHLKE
Published: April 18, 2010
THIS is not how I envisioned my first meal in Paris, I thought as I stood in front of L’Agrume. I did not take a three-chapter-long Métro ride to a boring part of the Fifth Arrondissement to eat at a place with a banner in the window advertising a 14-euro lunch menu. More

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