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By MARK BITTMAN
Published: January 15, 2010
GOOD citrus can almost make you glad it’s winter. When it’s in season — that’s now — it’s equal or superior to anything else you can buy in the plant kingdom. Any way you can devise to eat it, you’re taking advantage of something at its peak. If this year is different because of Florida’s bad weather, it only makes the good citrus that arrives more precious. More

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