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By MARK BITTMAN
Published: March 27, 2009
A COUPLE of years ago, a friend took me to Taberna Toscana, in Madrid. “We don’t need a menu,” he said. “We’ll get the veal shoulder and the tomato salad, like everyone else.” He was both right and wrong; those dishes were amazing, and I ate them the next couple of times I went there. More
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