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Pairing | Pasta With Venison and Porcini
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Published: February 3, 2009
Back around the time the earth cooled, there was a restaurant, Giordano’s, on West 39th Street near the entrance to the Lincoln Tunnel. Craig Claiborne gave it three stars in his 1968 “New York Times Guide to Dining Out in New York.”

Among the specialties was sautéed beef tenderloin, unusual because its sauce depended on white wine, not red. When I asked the chef about it, he said it was lighter that way. More

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