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lsandersonSap Happy
By OLIVER SCHWANER-ALBRIGHT
The Hemmingford
¼ cup vodka
¼ cup Neige ice cider from La Face Cachée de la Pomme.
Shake over shaved or blended ice and strain into a martini glass. Makes 1 drink. Adapted from Martin Picard and Marc Séguin.
——
Maple-Roasted Rack of Venison
1 4-pound rack of venison, trimmed (see note)
Salt and freshly ground
black pepper
Olive oil
1 ½ cups maple syrup
2 ½ cups veal stock (see note)
6 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
8 peppercorns
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons butter
5 large carrots, peeled and chopped
20 small boiler onions, peeled.
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Season venison generously with salt and pepper, rub with a little olive oil and let rest at room temperature. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, combine the maple syrup, veal stock, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns and garlic. Gently boil until reduced by half.
2. Set a roasting pan over medium-high heat and add the butter. When hot, brown the rack on all sides, then transfer to a plate. Pour the maple-stock reduction into the roasting pan, scraping the brown bits on the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Return the rack to the pan, meat-side up. Add the carrots and onions and season them with salt. Cook in the oven for 10 minutes, basting venison with sauce every 5 minutes. Flip venison and continue roasting until a thermometer inserted in the center registers 130 degrees, 10 to 20 minutes more (start checking the internal temperature after 10 minutes).
3. Transfer rack to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. If vegetables are fork-tender, transfer them to a serving platter. If not, put them in a saucepan. Strain the sauce into the saucepan and simmer until reduced to desired thickness or until the vegetables are tender. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Slice the venison and serve with vegetables and sauce. Serves 8. Loosely adapted from Martin Picard, the chef-owner of Au Pied de Cochon.
NOTE: Rack of venison can be ordered from most butchers with a few days’ notice. Veal stock is available at Staubitz, 222 Court Street, Brooklyn, (718) 624-0014, or can be ordered at Park East Kosher, 1623 Second Avenue, Manhattan, (212) 737-9800.
——
Maple-Syrup Pie
For the crust:
1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
5 tablespoons butter, cubed
3 tablespoons ice water
For the filling:
2 eggs
1 tablespoon flour
½ cup heavy cream
1 cup maple syrup, preferably medium dark
Crème fraîche, for serving.
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Make the crust by combining the flour, salt and sugar in a large bowl. Cut the butter into the flour with a fork or pastry blender until the mixture is the texture of coarse meal. Sprinkle a tablespoon of ice water at a time over the dough, lifting and tossing it with the fork. When it begins to come together, gather the dough, press it into a ball and then pull it apart. If it crumbles in your hands, it needs more water. Add a teaspoon or two more water, as needed.
2. Flatten the ball of dough and roll between two sheets of plastic wrap into a circle 10 inches in diameter. Remove the plastic and lay the dough into a 9-inch tart pan, press into place and remove excess dough. Place in the freezer.
3. Meanwhile, make the filling by beating the eggs in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the flour. Add the cream and maple syrup and whisk until combined. Pour into the crust-lined pan. Cook until the middle still jiggles but is solid, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve with crème fraîche. Serves 12. Loosely adapted from Chantal Séguin.
By OLIVER SCHWANER-ALBRIGHT
The maple syrup you poured on your waffles this morning probably came from Quebec, where more than 75 percent of the world’s supply is produced. And it’s at least one year old. Maple trees can’t be tricked into thinking it’s harvest time, and in Canada the sap doesn’t start running until early March, when the nights are still freezing but the days are bright.
Last March, Marc Séguin, a painter who commutes between his farm in Hemmingford, Quebec, and his Brooklyn studio (where he’s finishing a series titled “I Love America and America Loves Me”), inaugurated his cabane à sucre, or sugar shack, a rough-hewn cabin for making syrup. He installed a wood-fed évaporateur, built a table that seats 12 and invited his friends to spend a Sunday eating the high-calorie peasant feast that traditionally accompanies the harvest.
The hourlong parade usually includes split-pea soup, pancakes, bacon and ham, pork rinds, omelets, eggs poached in syrup, baked beans, bread and pan drippings, pickled carrots and beets, maple-syrup pie and taffy — all washed down with an optional Molson. And while such meals once fueled workers gathering sap, they now also stoke a growing tourist industry based around the province’s hundreds of commercial cabanes à sucre. More
The Hemmingford
¼ cup vodka
¼ cup Neige ice cider from La Face Cachée de la Pomme.
Shake over shaved or blended ice and strain into a martini glass. Makes 1 drink. Adapted from Martin Picard and Marc Séguin.
——
Maple-Roasted Rack of Venison
1 4-pound rack of venison, trimmed (see note)
Salt and freshly ground
black pepper
Olive oil
1 ½ cups maple syrup
2 ½ cups veal stock (see note)
6 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
8 peppercorns
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons butter
5 large carrots, peeled and chopped
20 small boiler onions, peeled.
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Season venison generously with salt and pepper, rub with a little olive oil and let rest at room temperature. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, combine the maple syrup, veal stock, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns and garlic. Gently boil until reduced by half.
2. Set a roasting pan over medium-high heat and add the butter. When hot, brown the rack on all sides, then transfer to a plate. Pour the maple-stock reduction into the roasting pan, scraping the brown bits on the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Return the rack to the pan, meat-side up. Add the carrots and onions and season them with salt. Cook in the oven for 10 minutes, basting venison with sauce every 5 minutes. Flip venison and continue roasting until a thermometer inserted in the center registers 130 degrees, 10 to 20 minutes more (start checking the internal temperature after 10 minutes).
3. Transfer rack to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. If vegetables are fork-tender, transfer them to a serving platter. If not, put them in a saucepan. Strain the sauce into the saucepan and simmer until reduced to desired thickness or until the vegetables are tender. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Slice the venison and serve with vegetables and sauce. Serves 8. Loosely adapted from Martin Picard, the chef-owner of Au Pied de Cochon.
NOTE: Rack of venison can be ordered from most butchers with a few days’ notice. Veal stock is available at Staubitz, 222 Court Street, Brooklyn, (718) 624-0014, or can be ordered at Park East Kosher, 1623 Second Avenue, Manhattan, (212) 737-9800.
——
Maple-Syrup Pie
For the crust:
1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
5 tablespoons butter, cubed
3 tablespoons ice water
For the filling:
2 eggs
1 tablespoon flour
½ cup heavy cream
1 cup maple syrup, preferably medium dark
Crème fraîche, for serving.
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Make the crust by combining the flour, salt and sugar in a large bowl. Cut the butter into the flour with a fork or pastry blender until the mixture is the texture of coarse meal. Sprinkle a tablespoon of ice water at a time over the dough, lifting and tossing it with the fork. When it begins to come together, gather the dough, press it into a ball and then pull it apart. If it crumbles in your hands, it needs more water. Add a teaspoon or two more water, as needed.
2. Flatten the ball of dough and roll between two sheets of plastic wrap into a circle 10 inches in diameter. Remove the plastic and lay the dough into a 9-inch tart pan, press into place and remove excess dough. Place in the freezer.
3. Meanwhile, make the filling by beating the eggs in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the flour. Add the cream and maple syrup and whisk until combined. Pour into the crust-lined pan. Cook until the middle still jiggles but is solid, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve with crème fraîche. Serves 12. Loosely adapted from Chantal Séguin.
