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lsanderson1909: Eggs Eli
This recipe by John W. Keller, a city commissioner, appeared in an article in The Times.
Anchovies were a popular ingredient at the turn of the 20th century. It’s impossible to know what the quality of the average anchovy was then. A good anchovy now is plump and assertive but neither too salty nor too fishy. (And whatever you do, avoid the ones with capers.) Lots of cookbooks call for those packed in salt, but Agostino Recca, a common brand found in supermarkets, makes good-quality ones, already filleted and packed in oil, that are fine substitutes.
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 tablespoons butter
8 eggs, cracked into a bowl
1 tablespoon finely minced anchovy
3 tablespoons finely minced
Virginia ham, or other smoked ham.
Rub the inside of a large skillet with the garlic clove. Place over medium-high heat and add the butter. When it’s nice and foamy, pour in the eggs. Sprinkle the anchovy and ham over the eggs, then begin scrambling them, stopping when they’re done to your liking. Keller, a Yale dropout, adds: “Serve on a Yale blue dish.” But any dish is fine. Serves 4.
•
2007: Crisp Pork With Scrambled Eggs and Yellow Chives
By Charles Phan, chef at the Slanted Door in San Francisco.
You can substitute green Chinese chives for yellow Chinese chives (which are available at Asian markets), but you will lose some of the spiciness.
3 ounces finely chopped pork shoulder
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon canola oil
Salt
Freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons yellow Chinese chives cut into 1-inch strips
4 eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt.
1. In a small bowl, combine the pork, fish sauce, oil and a pinch of salt and pepper.
2. In a nonstick sauté pan set over medium-high heat, brown the pork until crisp and no longer pink. Add the chives and cook 1 minute more. Reduce the heat to medium, add the eggs and stir them around the pan until the eggs set. Accompany with white rice and gai lan with anchovies. Serves 2.
•
Gai Lan (Chinese Broccoli) With Anchovies
1 pound gai lan, rinsed and trimmed
2 tablespoons canola oil
½ teaspoon minced garlic
8 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons rice wine
¼ cup chicken broth
2 teaspoons Vietnamese fish sauce
Cooked white rice, optional.
Split the large stalks of gai lan in half lengthwise. Place a large sauté pan over high heat and add the oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic and anchovies and cook, pressing on the anchovies with a wooden spoon until they dissolve and the garlic lightly browns. Add the gai lan and toss in the sauce to coat. Pour in the rice wine and let it reduce for 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and fish sauce, bring to a boil, cover and steam until almost tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Uncover and cook at a lively simmer until the gai lan is tender and the sauce has evaporated slightly. Serve with white rice and the crisp pork with scrambled eggs. Serves 2.
This recipe by John W. Keller, a city commissioner, appeared in an article in The Times.
Anchovies were a popular ingredient at the turn of the 20th century. It’s impossible to know what the quality of the average anchovy was then. A good anchovy now is plump and assertive but neither too salty nor too fishy. (And whatever you do, avoid the ones with capers.) Lots of cookbooks call for those packed in salt, but Agostino Recca, a common brand found in supermarkets, makes good-quality ones, already filleted and packed in oil, that are fine substitutes.
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 tablespoons butter
8 eggs, cracked into a bowl
1 tablespoon finely minced anchovy
3 tablespoons finely minced
Virginia ham, or other smoked ham.
Rub the inside of a large skillet with the garlic clove. Place over medium-high heat and add the butter. When it’s nice and foamy, pour in the eggs. Sprinkle the anchovy and ham over the eggs, then begin scrambling them, stopping when they’re done to your liking. Keller, a Yale dropout, adds: “Serve on a Yale blue dish.” But any dish is fine. Serves 4.
•
2007: Crisp Pork With Scrambled Eggs and Yellow Chives
By Charles Phan, chef at the Slanted Door in San Francisco.
You can substitute green Chinese chives for yellow Chinese chives (which are available at Asian markets), but you will lose some of the spiciness.
3 ounces finely chopped pork shoulder
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon canola oil
Salt
Freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons yellow Chinese chives cut into 1-inch strips
4 eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt.
1. In a small bowl, combine the pork, fish sauce, oil and a pinch of salt and pepper.
2. In a nonstick sauté pan set over medium-high heat, brown the pork until crisp and no longer pink. Add the chives and cook 1 minute more. Reduce the heat to medium, add the eggs and stir them around the pan until the eggs set. Accompany with white rice and gai lan with anchovies. Serves 2.
•
Gai Lan (Chinese Broccoli) With Anchovies
1 pound gai lan, rinsed and trimmed
2 tablespoons canola oil
½ teaspoon minced garlic
8 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons rice wine
¼ cup chicken broth
2 teaspoons Vietnamese fish sauce
Cooked white rice, optional.
Split the large stalks of gai lan in half lengthwise. Place a large sauté pan over high heat and add the oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic and anchovies and cook, pressing on the anchovies with a wooden spoon until they dissolve and the garlic lightly browns. Add the gai lan and toss in the sauce to coat. Pour in the rice wine and let it reduce for 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and fish sauce, bring to a boil, cover and steam until almost tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Uncover and cook at a lively simmer until the gai lan is tender and the sauce has evaporated slightly. Serve with white rice and the crisp pork with scrambled eggs. Serves 2.
