![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
lsandersonMeals in the Bush, Now With Fine Wines
By R. W. APPLE Jr.
SATARA, South Africa
"GUESS what? Some of South Africa's choicest wines and most satisfying food are served far from the bright lights of Cape Town, right in the midst of the wilderness, along a shimmering stream called the N'wanetsi, where hippopotamuses frolic, crocodiles slither and vivid birds of several hundred species fill the air with their trills."
From Korea, a Salad With Attitude
By MARK BITTMAN
"The Korean food that is probably most familiar to non-Koreans is barbecue. Though 32nd Street and other Korean neighborhoods throughout New York and the country offer a much wider representation of that cuisine, it's barbecue that has drawn all the attention."
Recipe: Lettuce and Chive Salad, Korean-Style
A Comforting Breakfast Starts With Salsa
By KIM SEVERSON
SAN FRANCISCO
"WHEN Traci Des Jardins first started cooking professionally, breakfast would start with salsa.
"Usually, it came from a can, like the kind on the shelves of almost any grocery store in California. She'd pour it into a sauté pan, maybe with a small handful of chopped cilantro if there was any in the kitchen."
Recipe: Refried Beans
Recipe: Huevos Rancheros
In the World of Sweets, Gross Is Good
By KIM SEVERSON
CHICAGO
"ONE can never be too thin, too rich or, apparently, too gross. At least if you make candy for a living."
For a Slice Extraordinaire, an Extraordinary Slice Joint
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
From the Catskills, a Rakish Italian Visitor
Imagine long, green fennel fronds supersized, and you have agretti, an esoteric Italian vegetable that is especially prized around Rome. It's also called barba di frate (monk's beard). Crunchy and a bit grassy when raw, these greens are better braised, when they have a mild flavor suggesting chives, with some of the astringency of spinach. Rick Bishop grows them in the Catskills, and they are sold at Agata & Valentina for $2.99 for 4 ounces, and at Dean & DeLuca for $3.99 for 4 ounces. That is enough to serve two when simply braised, or four when cooked and used as a topping for fish or tossed with pasta. I cut the branches in thirds, tossed them in a skillet with two tablespoons of olive oil, five cloves of sliced garlic, about a cup of thinly sliced sweet onion and a tablespoon of pine nuts, covered the pan and let the agretti cook about 5 minutes. I seasoned the dish with salt and pepper and a splash of balsamic vinegar and sat down to a feast.
Wines Have Feelings, Too
By ERIC ASIMOV
ALMOST from the moment humans began putting goblets to lips, they have challenged themselves to describe the experience of consuming wine. It has not been easy.
By R. W. APPLE Jr.
SATARA, South Africa
"GUESS what? Some of South Africa's choicest wines and most satisfying food are served far from the bright lights of Cape Town, right in the midst of the wilderness, along a shimmering stream called the N'wanetsi, where hippopotamuses frolic, crocodiles slither and vivid birds of several hundred species fill the air with their trills."
From Korea, a Salad With Attitude
By MARK BITTMAN
"The Korean food that is probably most familiar to non-Koreans is barbecue. Though 32nd Street and other Korean neighborhoods throughout New York and the country offer a much wider representation of that cuisine, it's barbecue that has drawn all the attention."
Recipe: Lettuce and Chive Salad, Korean-Style
A Comforting Breakfast Starts With Salsa
By KIM SEVERSON
SAN FRANCISCO
"WHEN Traci Des Jardins first started cooking professionally, breakfast would start with salsa.
"Usually, it came from a can, like the kind on the shelves of almost any grocery store in California. She'd pour it into a sauté pan, maybe with a small handful of chopped cilantro if there was any in the kitchen."
Recipe: Refried Beans
Recipe: Huevos Rancheros
In the World of Sweets, Gross Is Good
By KIM SEVERSON
CHICAGO
"ONE can never be too thin, too rich or, apparently, too gross. At least if you make candy for a living."
For a Slice Extraordinaire, an Extraordinary Slice Joint
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
From the Catskills, a Rakish Italian Visitor
Imagine long, green fennel fronds supersized, and you have agretti, an esoteric Italian vegetable that is especially prized around Rome. It's also called barba di frate (monk's beard). Crunchy and a bit grassy when raw, these greens are better braised, when they have a mild flavor suggesting chives, with some of the astringency of spinach. Rick Bishop grows them in the Catskills, and they are sold at Agata & Valentina for $2.99 for 4 ounces, and at Dean & DeLuca for $3.99 for 4 ounces. That is enough to serve two when simply braised, or four when cooked and used as a topping for fish or tossed with pasta. I cut the branches in thirds, tossed them in a skillet with two tablespoons of olive oil, five cloves of sliced garlic, about a cup of thinly sliced sweet onion and a tablespoon of pine nuts, covered the pan and let the agretti cook about 5 minutes. I seasoned the dish with salt and pepper and a splash of balsamic vinegar and sat down to a feast.
Wines Have Feelings, Too
By ERIC ASIMOV
ALMOST from the moment humans began putting goblets to lips, they have challenged themselves to describe the experience of consuming wine. It has not been easy.
