Turkey time at the ny times
Nov. 17th, 2004 08:31 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
lsandersonBy STEVEN RAICHLEN
"OVER the last 30 years I've cooked turkey using just about every technique contrived by human ingenuity, from baked with sliced truffles under the skin (a remembrance of my cooking school days in Paris) to roasted under a veil of butter-soaked cheesecloth (in the manner of Julia Child). I've braised turkeys, deep-fried them and roasted them upright on an open can of beer (a very large can manufactured by Foster's). I even once cooked a turkey under a metal trash can (a clean new can of course): a sort of outdoor oven dreamed up by a seasoned out-of-the-box thinker, the leader of a Boy Scout troop."
Recipe: Brined Turkey; Recipe: Turkey Smoked Outdoors; Recipe: Turkey Smoked Indoors; Recipe: Herb-Rubbed Turkey Smoked Indoors; Recipe: Madeira Gravy
There's Only One Stuffing: Ask Any Cook
By JULIA MOSKIN
Published: November 17, 2004
"THE writer Maya Angelou has lived a long life and cooked a lot of turkeys, and one thing she doesn't mince is words."
Recipe: Rich
Corn Bread Dressing; Recipe: Sausage Stuffing With Summer Savory; Recipe: Porcini Bread Stuffing
WINES OF THE TIMES
What Becomes a Turkey Most
By ERIC ASIMOV
"IT may have been a few weeks early, but the Dining section's tasting panel gathered recently for Thanksgiving dinner, complete with turkey, sweet potatoes and all the traditional components. In a novel but fitting division of labor, we all brought the wine."
What to Serve When Marshmallows Are Not Invited
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
"WITH turkey my personal preference is for red wine, though a white with some body and richness would be welcome. But when it comes to first courses, side dishes, salads and such, the cook's task is to try to avoid the cloying food for which Thanksgiving is known. The wine, whatever it may be, should not be suffocated in a cloud of marshmallow."
THE CHEF
You Can Thank Asia for This Pie
By MELISSA CLARK
"NEARING Thanksgiving, as most pastry chefs ponder the annual what-to-do-with-a-pumpkin quandary and wax nostalgic about pies past, Pichet Ong, the pastry chef at Spice Market and 66, contemplates kabocha squash."
Recipe: Kabocha Squash Pie; Recipe: Ginger Butterscotch Sauce
What's That Smell in the Park? It's Dinner
By OLIVER SCHWANER-ALBRIGHT
"RYAN BECZE, a grill cook at Masa, was standing in Central Park, beneath a ginkgo tree at the edge of Strawberry Fields. The ground was covered with the rank flesh of fallen fruit. "I hope you wore shoes where the bottoms can be washed," he told me."
As French as Apple Pie
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Published: November 17, 2004
"Laurent Tourondel likes American pies. "When I go into diners, I always order pie, but then I think that maybe I can do them better," said Mr. Tourondel, the French-born chef at BLT Steak, 106 East 57th Street, and Union Pacific, 111 East 22nd Street. No diner dessert can match his praline-dusted pumpkin pie, above center, with its silky filling hinting of dark caramel."
