Food! Glorious Food!
Aug. 8th, 2018 09:31 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
lsandersonIs It Southern Food, or Soul Food?
Two Southern cooks chew on questions of culture, identity and cuisine.
Todd Richards and Virginia Willis, authors of cookbooks on the food of the American South, at Ms. Willis’s home in Atlanta.Credit
By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipes: Grilled Peach Toast With Spicy Pimento Cheese | Tomato Pie With Pimento Cheese Topping | Peach Upside-Down Skillet Cake With Bourbon Whipped Cream
FOOD MATTERS
The Chefs Redefining Polynesian Cuisine
Centuries of colonization nearly erased the taste of the Pacific. Now, a new generation is reimagining the regional food for a new era.
Indigenous Pacific produce including, from left: taro in various forms (root, poi, pa‘i‘ai, powder); ’ulu (breadfruit); nama (sea grapes); and sprouted coconuts with lolo niu (their spongy embryo).
By LIGAYA MISHAN
NONFICTION
In France, an American Woman Learns the Butcher’s Trade
After apprenticing in a Gascon village, Camas Davis returned home with an appreciation of “life, death and dinner.” “Killing It” tells her story.
KILLING IT: An Education By Camas Davis, 339 pp. Penguin Press. $27.
By CREE LeFAVOUR
FRONT BURNER
Learn to Brew ‘History’s Oldest Drink’
Mead, the fermented honey alcoholic beverage, is making a comeback.“Mead: The Libations, Legends and Lore of History’s Oldest Drink” by Fred Minnick (Running Press, $25).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Q & A
A Chicago TV Host Knows Restaurants. She Has Some Ideas for You.
Catherine De Orio has been to hundreds of restaurants for the show “Check, Please.” She has recommendations for where to eat in Chicago — and beyond.
By Ceil Miller Bouchet
RESTAURANT REVIEW
At Gem, a Teen Wonder Plays in the Big Leagues
Flynn McGarry, who has been charging money for meals since he was 13, gets his first real restaurant at age 19.
By PETE WELLS
The Best Pork Chops Aren’t Actually Chops
Why relegate pork shoulder to the braising pot when you could put tender, juicy shoulder steaks on the grill? Alison Roman makes the case.
Meet the new hero of summer grilling: pork shoulder steaks. Paired with herbs and citrus, they're irresistible.Credit
By ALISON ROMAN
Recipe: Sweet and Salty Grilled Pork With Citrus and Herbs
EAT
From the Smallest State, the Biggest Sandwich
By Sam Sifton
Recipe: Chorizo Sloppy Joes With Kale and Provolone
CITY KITCHEN
Good Things Happen When Bread Meets Eggs
For your next weeknight meal, try this omelet brimming with herbs, then tucked into a pita and paired with a yogurt sauce and chopped salad.Credit
For your next weeknight meal, try this omelet brimming with herbs, then tucked into a pita and paired with a yogurt sauce and chopped salad.Credit
By David Tanis
Recipe: Herb Omelet Pita Sandwich
ON DESSERT
France Meets China in a Luxurious Custard
A delicious innovation using techniques common to both dessert cultures.
Daniel Skurnick’s Franco-Chinese steamed ginger custard.
By DORIE GREENSPAN
Recipe: Daniel Skurnick’s Franco-Chinese Steamed Ginger Custard | Spiced Caramel Syrup
A GOOD APPETITE
Lemon Bars, With Blueberries in a Supporting Role
It’s a classic, arguably essential pairing, but striking the right balance can be tricky.
Bakers, take note: These are lemon-blueberry bars, not blueberry-lemon bars.
By Melissa Clark
Recipe: Lemon-Blueberry Bars
FRONT BURNER
One Wine Glass to Rule Them All
For a wine critic’s personal stemware line, one size fits all. Jancis Robinson collection, $56 for wine glass, $48 for water glass, $152 to $200 for decanters, richardbrendon.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
WHAT TO COOK
What to Cook Right Now
Find comfort in cooking, whether you make slow-cooker butter chicken, pork chops with tamarind and ginger or salted tahini chocolate chip cookies.
By SAM SIFTON
WHAT TO COOK
What to Cook This Week
Cook a little happiness into your life: Make David Tanis’s pita sandwiches, filled with an herby omelet, and Melissa Clark’s lemon-blueberry bars.
By SAM SIFTON
WINES OF THE TIMES
Beyond Assyrtiko, Greek Whites Reach for Distinction
By Eric Asimov
Joël Robuchon, a French Chef Festooned With Stars, Is Dead at 73
Classically trained but always inventive, he dazzled the culinary world, sweeping up Michelin stars wherever he set foot with a new restaurant.
By WILLIAM GRIMES
AN APPRAISAL
Joël Robuchon Rewrote the Rules of Fine Dining
Mr. Robuchon came closer than anyone to mastering a formula for winning Michelin stars.
By Pete Wells
Two Southern cooks chew on questions of culture, identity and cuisine.
Todd Richards and Virginia Willis, authors of cookbooks on the food of the American South, at Ms. Willis’s home in Atlanta.Credit
By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipes: Grilled Peach Toast With Spicy Pimento Cheese | Tomato Pie With Pimento Cheese Topping | Peach Upside-Down Skillet Cake With Bourbon Whipped Cream
FOOD MATTERS
The Chefs Redefining Polynesian Cuisine
Centuries of colonization nearly erased the taste of the Pacific. Now, a new generation is reimagining the regional food for a new era.
Indigenous Pacific produce including, from left: taro in various forms (root, poi, pa‘i‘ai, powder); ’ulu (breadfruit); nama (sea grapes); and sprouted coconuts with lolo niu (their spongy embryo).
By LIGAYA MISHAN
NONFICTION
In France, an American Woman Learns the Butcher’s Trade
After apprenticing in a Gascon village, Camas Davis returned home with an appreciation of “life, death and dinner.” “Killing It” tells her story.
KILLING IT: An Education By Camas Davis, 339 pp. Penguin Press. $27.
By CREE LeFAVOUR
FRONT BURNER
Learn to Brew ‘History’s Oldest Drink’
Mead, the fermented honey alcoholic beverage, is making a comeback.“Mead: The Libations, Legends and Lore of History’s Oldest Drink” by Fred Minnick (Running Press, $25).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Q & A
A Chicago TV Host Knows Restaurants. She Has Some Ideas for You.
Catherine De Orio has been to hundreds of restaurants for the show “Check, Please.” She has recommendations for where to eat in Chicago — and beyond.
By Ceil Miller Bouchet
RESTAURANT REVIEW
At Gem, a Teen Wonder Plays in the Big Leagues
Flynn McGarry, who has been charging money for meals since he was 13, gets his first real restaurant at age 19.
By PETE WELLS
The Best Pork Chops Aren’t Actually Chops
Why relegate pork shoulder to the braising pot when you could put tender, juicy shoulder steaks on the grill? Alison Roman makes the case.
Meet the new hero of summer grilling: pork shoulder steaks. Paired with herbs and citrus, they're irresistible.Credit
By ALISON ROMAN
Recipe: Sweet and Salty Grilled Pork With Citrus and Herbs
EAT
From the Smallest State, the Biggest Sandwich
By Sam Sifton
Recipe: Chorizo Sloppy Joes With Kale and Provolone
CITY KITCHEN
Good Things Happen When Bread Meets Eggs
For your next weeknight meal, try this omelet brimming with herbs, then tucked into a pita and paired with a yogurt sauce and chopped salad.Credit
For your next weeknight meal, try this omelet brimming with herbs, then tucked into a pita and paired with a yogurt sauce and chopped salad.Credit
By David Tanis
Recipe: Herb Omelet Pita Sandwich
ON DESSERT
France Meets China in a Luxurious Custard
A delicious innovation using techniques common to both dessert cultures.
Daniel Skurnick’s Franco-Chinese steamed ginger custard.
By DORIE GREENSPAN
Recipe: Daniel Skurnick’s Franco-Chinese Steamed Ginger Custard | Spiced Caramel Syrup
A GOOD APPETITE
Lemon Bars, With Blueberries in a Supporting Role
It’s a classic, arguably essential pairing, but striking the right balance can be tricky.
Bakers, take note: These are lemon-blueberry bars, not blueberry-lemon bars.
By Melissa Clark
Recipe: Lemon-Blueberry Bars
FRONT BURNER
One Wine Glass to Rule Them All
For a wine critic’s personal stemware line, one size fits all. Jancis Robinson collection, $56 for wine glass, $48 for water glass, $152 to $200 for decanters, richardbrendon.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
WHAT TO COOK
What to Cook Right Now
Find comfort in cooking, whether you make slow-cooker butter chicken, pork chops with tamarind and ginger or salted tahini chocolate chip cookies.
By SAM SIFTON
WHAT TO COOK
What to Cook This Week
Cook a little happiness into your life: Make David Tanis’s pita sandwiches, filled with an herby omelet, and Melissa Clark’s lemon-blueberry bars.
By SAM SIFTON
WINES OF THE TIMES
Beyond Assyrtiko, Greek Whites Reach for Distinction
By Eric Asimov
Joël Robuchon, a French Chef Festooned With Stars, Is Dead at 73
Classically trained but always inventive, he dazzled the culinary world, sweeping up Michelin stars wherever he set foot with a new restaurant.
By WILLIAM GRIMES
AN APPRAISAL
Joël Robuchon Rewrote the Rules of Fine Dining
Mr. Robuchon came closer than anyone to mastering a formula for winning Michelin stars.
By Pete Wells
