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Essential Thanksgiving

Holidays Holding Hands
When Thanksgiving and Hanukkah Collide
Recipes

David (The Latke King) Firestone’s Latkes
Portuguese Pumpkin Preserves
Sweet and Sour Braised Brisket With Cranberries and Pomegranate
Horseradish Matzo Ball Soup

DRINKS OF THE TIMES
Dry Cider, an American Favorite, Rebounds

Tasting Report

Foggy Ridge, $17, ***
Serious Cider, Dugspur, Va., 750 milliliters
Pure, lightly carbonated, tannic and slightly austere, with lingering crisp, tart flavors.

BEST VALUE
Leonard Oakes Estate, $11, ***
Steampunk Cider, Lyndonville, N.Y., 750 milliliters
Fresh, tangy and balanced, with pleasingly bitter, herbal, honeyed flavors.

Farnum Hill, $14, ***
Dooryard Cider No. 1315, Lebanon, N.H., 750 milliliters
Barely carbonated; dry, tannic and almost winelike, with complex herbal flavors.

Wandering Aengus, $11, ** ½
Wickson, Salem, Ore., 500 milliliters
Bold, spicy, refreshing and complex, with funky flavors of baked apples.

West County, $16, ** ½
Belle de Boskoop, Colrain, Mass., 750 milliliters
Dry, assertive and deliciously drinkable, with pure green apple flavors.

Wölffer Estate, $4, ** ½
Dry Rosé Cider No. 139, Sagaponack, N.Y., 12 ounces
Delicate and fruity, but not particularly complex with a touch of sweetness.

Woodchuck, $10, ** ½
Farmhouse Select Original ’91, Middlebury, Vt., 750 milliliters
Pale, cloudy and softly carbonated, with pretty floral aromas, tangy and slightly sweet.

Eve’s Cidery, $14, **
Autumn's Gold, Van Etten, N.Y., 750 milliliters
Floral, minty, tart and almost austere.

Ace, $2, **
Hard Cider, Sebastopol, Calif., 12 ounces
Tangy, straightforward and balanced, with slightly harsh carbonation.

Original Sin, $12, **
Newtown Pippin, Milton-Freewater, Ore., 750 milliliters
Tart, crisp and fresh, with clean, pretty fruit flavors.
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