Jun. 5th, 2019

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Learning to Listen, in a Los Angeles Cafe Built for Vinyl
Japanese-style listening bars, where D.J.’s spin carefully selected records for a hushed audience, are arriving in America. But truly appreciating them can take a little practice. “To hear more, say less.”
By Ben Ratliff

A Chef Plunges Into Mexican Politics
Gabriela Cámara, of Contramar and Cala, is on the brink of global culinary fame. But first she’ll return home to Mexico to advise the country’s president on food policy.
By Julia Moskin

Michelin Announces California Ratings, Leaving Los Angeles Off Its 3-Star List
Despite the guide’s expanded reach, the number of top-rated restaurants, all in the Bay Area, remained the same.
"The list of three-star restaurants remained at the seven featured in the 2019 San Francisco guide published in November. They are Atelier Crenn, Benu and Quince in the city; Manresa in Los Gatos, near San Jose; and the French Laundry, the Restaurant at Meadowood and SingleThread in the wine country."
By Florence Fabricant

Deep in the Muslim Heart of Texas, a Farm Family Provides Halal Meat
A Houston-area couple is trying to offer a smaller-scale, more humane alternative to conventional slaughterhouses.
By Priya Krishna

A Summertime Quandary: The Cooler Is Full of Melted Ice
If you want to keep the contents cool, better to leave the water in the ice chest if you can.
By C. Claiborne Ray

A GOOD APPETITE
Custard Sheds a Few Layers
Without eggs, gelatin, cornstarch or any baking involved, these rich and silky lemon desserts are almost too easy to make.


Ultra creamy but still ethereally light, these custards are based on a British dessert called a posset.
By Melissa Clark

The Chicken Isn’t Even the Best Part
Alison Roman’s olive oil-roasted chicken is worth making for the salty, lemony leftover fat alone.

Image
Carrots sizzle and caramelize alongside the chicken legs.
"I know the “correct” way to do most things in the kitchen. I know to soak beans overnight so they cook evenly and the skins don’t split; I can make a classic buttercream so stable you could caulk a tub with it. And yet I mostly choose to ignore the “correct” way in favor of a “faster” or “more convenient” way. I realize I’m sacrificing history and tradition — but what I get in return is dinner that night."
By Alison Roman

EAT
You Don’t Have to Turn on Your Oven for This Delicious Beet Dip


Beet dip with labneh.
"To make it, peel the beets, chop them roughly and toss them in a blender (with gloves on if you’re working with red beets, and you don’t want your fingertips stained). Everything else can go in at the same time: a juicy lemon’s worth of juice, a glug of syrupy pomegranate molasses to sweeten it and lots of olive oil and walnuts to mellow out the dip and add texture. It takes a little more salt than you think it needs, some pepper, chile flakes and a small clove of garlic. And blending, lots of blending."
By Tejal Rao

FIVE WEEKNIGHT DISHES
My New Favorite Herb
By Emily Weinstein

NONFICTION
‘Hotbox’ Is the ‘Kitchen Confidential’ of the Big-Ticket Catering World
By Charlotte Druckman

FRONT BURNER
Everything, Even the Worm
‘The Tequila Dictionary’ covers the Mexican liquor from A to Z, and includes recipes.
By Florence Fabricant

Zen and the Art of Australian Winemaking
For Will Berliner of Cloudburst, the vines are a ‘dojo’ that puts him in touch with nature. He also makes great chardonnays, cabernets and malbecs.
By Eric Asimov

Natural Wine Is My Self-Care
In recent years, I’ve decided that enjoying life is spiritual.
By Fariha Roisin

Leah Chase, 96, Creole Chef Who Fed Presidents and Freedom Riders, Dies
By Kim Severson

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Jun. 5th, 2019 12:00 pm
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