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Food! Glorious Food! The Catchup Edition
Oct. 4th, 2017 10:25 amUsing Science and History to Unlock the Secrets of Bread
Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya’s myth-busting new book, “Modernist Bread,” is a call for bakers to experiment and innovate.
By TEJAL RAO
TRILOBITES
Pumpkins, squash and other melon-like fruits share a common ancestor that dates back about 100 million years.
The Evolutionary Event That Gave You Pumpkins and Squash
About 100 million years ago, the genome of a melon-like fruit copied itself, leading to fruits now associated with autumn, scientists have found.
By JOANNA KLEIN
TECH WE’RE USING
Pete Wells, The New York Times’s restaurant critic, at a Brooklyn restaurant this month.
Avoiding Cameras While Training the Lens on Food
Pete Wells, The Times’s restaurant critic, discussed how he avoids cameras to protect his identity and how technology has transformed the dining scene.
By PETE WELLS
The new restaurant in the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago is called Marisol, and its centerpiece is a mural by the artist Chris Ofili.
Chicago Art Museum Opens a Restaurant Named for Marisol
The new dining room at the Museum of Contemporary Art pays homage to the Venezuelan-American sculptor.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Adwa Alsubaie, a line cook at the SoHo restaurant the Dutch, fled her home in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.
For Refugee Chefs, This Meal Is a Business Card
By MATTHEW SEDACCA
A food and arts festival aims to help migrants and asylum seekers build professional networks and foster better understanding of displaced people.
The kitchen at Footprints Cafe Express in Brooklyn, whose owner, Bob Gordon, said the UberEats delivery service had been a boon to his business. Mr. Gordon also owns Footprints Cafe, a separate location.
One Surprise Standout for Uber: Food Delivery
Despite a late start, the company’s foray into delivering food, a cutthroat $100 billion-plus service industry, eclipses ride hailing in some markets.
By MIKE ISAAC
The chef Sébastien Bras at his restaurant, Le Suquet, in Laguiole, in southern France, on Thursday.
Acclaimed French Chef to Michelin: Take My Stars, Please
Sébastien Bras, who runs Le Suquet restaurant in Laguiole, France, doesn’t want the stress. He’s not the first to seek to surrender the accolade.
By DAN BILEFSKY and ELIAN PELTIER
Students practice their Instagram shots at a June event at the Culinary Institute of America campus in Hyde Park, N.Y. The institute is developing new courses in food photography and styling.
Lights! Camera! Culinary School Will Teach Instagram Skills
As images of restaurant dishes become more crucial, the Culinary Institute of America is one of the latest to add courses in food photography.
By KAREN STABINER
Schoolgirls and a KFC just outside Accra. The company established a beachhead in South Africa, opening there in the early 1970s, and has expanded steadily through sub-Saharan Africa.
Obesity Was Rising as Ghana Embraced Fast Food. Then Came KFC.
The growing popularity of fried chicken and pizza in parts of Africa underscores how fast food is changing habits and expanding waistlines.
By DIONNE SEARCEY and MATT RICHTEL
Plantain trees flattened by Hurricane Maria in Yabucoa, P.R. In a matter of hours, the storm destroyed about 80 percent of the crop value in Puerto Rico, the territory’s agriculture secretary said.
Puerto Rico’s Agriculture and Farmers Decimated by Maria
Hurricane Maria’s barrage took out entire plantations and destroyed crops and livestock across the island. The storm knocked out about 80 percent of its crops.
By FRANCES ROBLES and LUIS FERRÉ-SADURNÍ
Seed pods from different varieties of cacao. The C.A.T.I.E.’s goal is not to replace all cacao with six resistant hybrids, but to be able to diversify the varieties grown worldwide.
A Battle to Save the World’s Favorite Treat: Chocolate
In Costa Rica, researchers are cloning cacao hybrids resistant to frosty pod rot, a blight that has spread throughout Latin America.
By MYLES KARP
The Heirloom tomatoes and cured bigeye tuna, at Oberlin in Providence, Rhode Island. ..Sept. 23, 2017. Providence, Rhode Island.
A Providence Chef Has Connections at the Docks
At Oberlin, Benjamin Sukle explores Rhode Island’s coast with nose-to-fin cooking of the freshest fish.
By PETE WELLS
This chocolate chip cookie recipe calls for pulling the baking sheet out of the oven as the cookies bake, and striking it against the stove or oven rack several times, creating a rippled effect.
An Internet-Famous Cookie Worthy of Baking in Real Life
A chocolate chip cookie, thin with crisp ripples that run to the edges, finds Instagram fame.
By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipe: Giant Crinkled Chocolate Chip Cookies
Eggplant Parmesan, the perfect crowd-pleasing vegetarian entrée, with its familiar flavors and satisfying richness.
Solving the Puzzle of Eggplant Parmesan
The answer: Slice the eggplant tempura-style, fan it out and then fry it whole.
By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipe:
CITY KITCHEN
Serve beets as you would an elegant baked potato — topped with dollops of crème fraîche, dill, chives and sprigs of cilantro.
A Better Beet, Fresh From the Market
Canned beets just don’t compare to the sweet and earthy ones just pulled from the garden.
By DAVID TANIS
Recipes: Yellow Beet Salad With Mustard Seed Dressing | Baked-Potato-Style Red Beets
Niman Ranch prosciutto.
A New American Prosciutto
Niman Ranch’s cured ham is aged for at least a year.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
A GOOD APPETITE
To Transform Your Weeknight Cooking, Turn On the Instant Pot
A multicooker like the Instant Pot, which combines an electric pressure cooker and slow cooker with other functions in one machine, can produce succulent tamarind baby back ribs with astonishing speed.
There’s no other single gadget that makes it as easy to get a delicious meal on the table.
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipes: Pressure Cooker Sticky Tamarind Baby Back Ribs | Pressure Cooker Coconut Curry Chicken
It's Canned Tomato Season. Here's What You Need To Know
For everyday cooking, canned often outperform fresh. Julia Moskin tastes and investigates 10 top brands.
Four favorites from our tasting of canned tomatoes, from left, Simpson Brands, Muir Glen Organic San Marzano-style, Bionaturae Organic and Cento San Marzano Organic.
By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipe: Quick Minestrone
EAT
Have Your Date and Your Garlic Too
How you should — and should not — cook with garlic.
By SAMIN NOSRAT
CITY KITCHEN
Italian pork sausages, cooked with onions and bell peppers, are big on flavor and ready in half an hour.
A Weeknight Meal That Needs No Introduction
Ready in 30 minutes, sausage and peppers, paired with sunny-side-up eggs, can be just the thing for those nights when you just want something simple.
By DAVID TANIS
Recipe: Sausages With Peppers and Onions
They aren’t often cheap, but these items are worthwhile investments, a safe-deposit collection for flavor.
FloFab’s Top 10: Special Ingredients to Elevate Your Pantry
Bottom from left, the author’s pantry must-haves: anchovy paste, scallions, capers, sliced almonds, Arborio rice, black olive paste, cannellini beans, pitted prunes, dried porcini mushrooms, red miso paste and good-quality jarred tuna.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
The chef and author Meera Sodha at home. Her latest book, “Fresh India,” describes what she calls her Gujarati sensibility: “creative, fresh and always vegetable first.”
For Everyday Vegetable Dishes, Meera Sodha Is the Master
The British author is skilled in simplifying and modernizing the vibrancy of Indian home cooking, and in explaining just how to do it.
By TEJAL RAO
Recipes: Sri Lankan Dal with Coconut and Lime Kale | Roasted Broccoli with Almonds and Cardamom (Malai Broccoli)
Pierre Franey’s macaroni and beef casserole freezes well after baking.
Expecting a Baby? What to Cook and Freeze Now So You Won’t Go Hungry Later
With a little advance planning, you can stock your freezer with a couple weeks’ worth of meals.
By MARGAUX LASKEY
DRINKS
20 Wines for Under $20: Weeknight Pleasures for Relaxed Evenings
These easygoing bottles will not challenge or demand. They are all refreshing pleasures and great values. But they will also reward attention.
Ann R. Tuennerman, the founder of the annual cocktail convention in New Orleans, has resigned following a controversy that began with a Mardi Gras costume.
At Tales of the Cocktail, the Founder Steps Down
Ann R. Tuennerman, center, shown in 2013 with Colin Asare-Appiah, left, and Darryl Bullock, the grandnephew of Tom Bullock, the first African-American bartender to publish a cocktail manual.
By ROBERT SIMONSON
Wine School
By ERIC ASIMOV
Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya’s myth-busting new book, “Modernist Bread,” is a call for bakers to experiment and innovate.
By TEJAL RAO
Only $625!
TRILOBITES
Pumpkins, squash and other melon-like fruits share a common ancestor that dates back about 100 million years.
The Evolutionary Event That Gave You Pumpkins and Squash
About 100 million years ago, the genome of a melon-like fruit copied itself, leading to fruits now associated with autumn, scientists have found.
By JOANNA KLEIN
TECH WE’RE USING
Pete Wells, The New York Times’s restaurant critic, at a Brooklyn restaurant this month.
Avoiding Cameras While Training the Lens on Food
Sites like Yelp give people plenty of information about restaurants. Yet many restaurants still have their own websites. Is this necessary?
The most valuable thing a restaurant can do on its website is post the current menu and drinks lists, with prices. All the other data you might want, and there’s not really very much, can be served up much more efficiently by Google, although I still think website designers who don’t put the restaurant’s address and phone number and hours right on the home page should be sued for malpractice.
Pete Wells, The Times’s restaurant critic, discussed how he avoids cameras to protect his identity and how technology has transformed the dining scene.
By PETE WELLS
The new restaurant in the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago is called Marisol, and its centerpiece is a mural by the artist Chris Ofili.
Chicago Art Museum Opens a Restaurant Named for Marisol
The new dining room at the Museum of Contemporary Art pays homage to the Venezuelan-American sculptor.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Adwa Alsubaie, a line cook at the SoHo restaurant the Dutch, fled her home in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.
For Refugee Chefs, This Meal Is a Business Card
By MATTHEW SEDACCA
A food and arts festival aims to help migrants and asylum seekers build professional networks and foster better understanding of displaced people.
The kitchen at Footprints Cafe Express in Brooklyn, whose owner, Bob Gordon, said the UberEats delivery service had been a boon to his business. Mr. Gordon also owns Footprints Cafe, a separate location.
One Surprise Standout for Uber: Food Delivery
Despite a late start, the company’s foray into delivering food, a cutthroat $100 billion-plus service industry, eclipses ride hailing in some markets.
By MIKE ISAAC
The chef Sébastien Bras at his restaurant, Le Suquet, in Laguiole, in southern France, on Thursday.
Acclaimed French Chef to Michelin: Take My Stars, Please
Sébastien Bras, who runs Le Suquet restaurant in Laguiole, France, doesn’t want the stress. He’s not the first to seek to surrender the accolade.
By DAN BILEFSKY and ELIAN PELTIER
Students practice their Instagram shots at a June event at the Culinary Institute of America campus in Hyde Park, N.Y. The institute is developing new courses in food photography and styling.
Lights! Camera! Culinary School Will Teach Instagram Skills
As images of restaurant dishes become more crucial, the Culinary Institute of America is one of the latest to add courses in food photography.
By KAREN STABINER
Schoolgirls and a KFC just outside Accra. The company established a beachhead in South Africa, opening there in the early 1970s, and has expanded steadily through sub-Saharan Africa.
Obesity Was Rising as Ghana Embraced Fast Food. Then Came KFC.
The growing popularity of fried chicken and pizza in parts of Africa underscores how fast food is changing habits and expanding waistlines.
By DIONNE SEARCEY and MATT RICHTEL
Plantain trees flattened by Hurricane Maria in Yabucoa, P.R. In a matter of hours, the storm destroyed about 80 percent of the crop value in Puerto Rico, the territory’s agriculture secretary said.
Puerto Rico’s Agriculture and Farmers Decimated by Maria
Hurricane Maria’s barrage took out entire plantations and destroyed crops and livestock across the island. The storm knocked out about 80 percent of its crops.
By FRANCES ROBLES and LUIS FERRÉ-SADURNÍ
Seed pods from different varieties of cacao. The C.A.T.I.E.’s goal is not to replace all cacao with six resistant hybrids, but to be able to diversify the varieties grown worldwide.
A Battle to Save the World’s Favorite Treat: Chocolate
In Costa Rica, researchers are cloning cacao hybrids resistant to frosty pod rot, a blight that has spread throughout Latin America.
By MYLES KARP
The Heirloom tomatoes and cured bigeye tuna, at Oberlin in Providence, Rhode Island. ..Sept. 23, 2017. Providence, Rhode Island.
A Providence Chef Has Connections at the Docks
At Oberlin, Benjamin Sukle explores Rhode Island’s coast with nose-to-fin cooking of the freshest fish.
By PETE WELLS
This chocolate chip cookie recipe calls for pulling the baking sheet out of the oven as the cookies bake, and striking it against the stove or oven rack several times, creating a rippled effect.
An Internet-Famous Cookie Worthy of Baking in Real Life
A chocolate chip cookie, thin with crisp ripples that run to the edges, finds Instagram fame.
By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipe: Giant Crinkled Chocolate Chip Cookies
Eggplant Parmesan, the perfect crowd-pleasing vegetarian entrée, with its familiar flavors and satisfying richness.
Solving the Puzzle of Eggplant Parmesan
The answer: Slice the eggplant tempura-style, fan it out and then fry it whole.
By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipe:
CITY KITCHEN
Serve beets as you would an elegant baked potato — topped with dollops of crème fraîche, dill, chives and sprigs of cilantro.
A Better Beet, Fresh From the Market
Canned beets just don’t compare to the sweet and earthy ones just pulled from the garden.
By DAVID TANIS
Recipes: Yellow Beet Salad With Mustard Seed Dressing | Baked-Potato-Style Red Beets
Niman Ranch prosciutto.
A New American Prosciutto
Niman Ranch’s cured ham is aged for at least a year.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
A GOOD APPETITE
To Transform Your Weeknight Cooking, Turn On the Instant Pot
A multicooker like the Instant Pot, which combines an electric pressure cooker and slow cooker with other functions in one machine, can produce succulent tamarind baby back ribs with astonishing speed.
There’s no other single gadget that makes it as easy to get a delicious meal on the table.
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipes: Pressure Cooker Sticky Tamarind Baby Back Ribs | Pressure Cooker Coconut Curry Chicken
It's Canned Tomato Season. Here's What You Need To Know
For everyday cooking, canned often outperform fresh. Julia Moskin tastes and investigates 10 top brands.
Four favorites from our tasting of canned tomatoes, from left, Simpson Brands, Muir Glen Organic San Marzano-style, Bionaturae Organic and Cento San Marzano Organic.
By JULIA MOSKIN
Recipe: Quick Minestrone
EAT
Have Your Date and Your Garlic Too
How you should — and should not — cook with garlic.
By SAMIN NOSRAT
CITY KITCHEN
Italian pork sausages, cooked with onions and bell peppers, are big on flavor and ready in half an hour.
A Weeknight Meal That Needs No Introduction
Ready in 30 minutes, sausage and peppers, paired with sunny-side-up eggs, can be just the thing for those nights when you just want something simple.
By DAVID TANIS
Recipe: Sausages With Peppers and Onions
They aren’t often cheap, but these items are worthwhile investments, a safe-deposit collection for flavor.
FloFab’s Top 10: Special Ingredients to Elevate Your Pantry
Bottom from left, the author’s pantry must-haves: anchovy paste, scallions, capers, sliced almonds, Arborio rice, black olive paste, cannellini beans, pitted prunes, dried porcini mushrooms, red miso paste and good-quality jarred tuna.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
The chef and author Meera Sodha at home. Her latest book, “Fresh India,” describes what she calls her Gujarati sensibility: “creative, fresh and always vegetable first.”
For Everyday Vegetable Dishes, Meera Sodha Is the Master
The British author is skilled in simplifying and modernizing the vibrancy of Indian home cooking, and in explaining just how to do it.
By TEJAL RAO
Recipes: Sri Lankan Dal with Coconut and Lime Kale | Roasted Broccoli with Almonds and Cardamom (Malai Broccoli)
Pierre Franey’s macaroni and beef casserole freezes well after baking.
Expecting a Baby? What to Cook and Freeze Now So You Won’t Go Hungry Later
With a little advance planning, you can stock your freezer with a couple weeks’ worth of meals.
By MARGAUX LASKEY
DRINKS
20 Wines for Under $20: Weeknight Pleasures for Relaxed Evenings
These easygoing bottles will not challenge or demand. They are all refreshing pleasures and great values. But they will also reward attention.
Ann R. Tuennerman, the founder of the annual cocktail convention in New Orleans, has resigned following a controversy that began with a Mardi Gras costume.
At Tales of the Cocktail, the Founder Steps Down
Ann R. Tuennerman, center, shown in 2013 with Colin Asare-Appiah, left, and Darryl Bullock, the grandnephew of Tom Bullock, the first African-American bartender to publish a cocktail manual.
By ROBERT SIMONSON
Wine School
The three bottles I recommend are:Equinoxe Crozes-Hermitage Equis 2015 (Skurnik Wines, New York) $21
Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2015 (Europvin U.S.A., Van Nuys, Calif.) $35
J.L. Chave Sélection Crozes-Hermitage Silène 2015 (Erin Cannon Imports, Manhasset, N.Y.) $28
By ERIC ASIMOV
