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Egg Farms Hit Hard as Bird Flu Affects Millions of Hens
By STEPHANIE STROM
Summer Dinner Ideas That Work Again and Again
By SAM SIFTON
Recipe: Compound Butter
Recipe: Lobster Butter
Recipe: All-Purpose Dry Rub
Recipe: Spiedie Marinade
Potato Salad Done Right
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe: Garlic Aioli Potato Salad
Recipe: Spicy Kimchi Potato Salad
Recipe: Bacon and Shallot Potato Salad
Recipe: Lemon Potato Salad With Mint
This Ricotta Tart Is a Canvas for Any Summer Fruit
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe: Ricotta Tart With Lemon Poppy Crust
Beyond Gin and Tonic
By ROBERT SIMONSON
Every Last Bit
By Mark Bittman
Recipe: Ara Yaki
The Modern American Shrub
By KIM SEVERSON
Fudge Pop Perfection
By KIM SEVERSON
Recipe: Frozen Fudge Pops
Rosé Wine to Drink This Summer
Eric Asimov
By STEPHANIE STROM
Summer Dinner Ideas That Work Again and Again
By SAM SIFTON
Recipe: Compound Butter
Recipe: Lobster Butter
Recipe: All-Purpose Dry Rub
Recipe: Spiedie Marinade
Potato Salad Done Right
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe: Garlic Aioli Potato Salad
Recipe: Spicy Kimchi Potato Salad
Recipe: Bacon and Shallot Potato Salad
Recipe: Lemon Potato Salad With Mint
This Ricotta Tart Is a Canvas for Any Summer Fruit
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipe: Ricotta Tart With Lemon Poppy Crust
The crust really looks great!
Beyond Gin and Tonic
By ROBERT SIMONSON
Every Last Bit
By Mark Bittman
Recipe: Ara Yaki
The Modern American Shrub
By KIM SEVERSON
CHERRY AND MINT SHRUB
Mix 2 cups crushed sweet cherries, 1/4 cup mint leaves and 1/2 cup sugar. Refrigerate overnight, stirring once or twice. Strain and mix with 1/4 cup red wine vinegar and 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar. Particularly good with tonic.
TOMATO AND BASIL SHRUB
Crush 1 pound Sungold or other cherry tomatoes and add 1/2 cup sugar. Steep about 20 basil leaves in 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar overnight. Combine both in a jar, shake well and store in the refrigerator for a week. Strain before drinking.
CUCUMBER AND DILL SHRUB
Steep overnight 1/4 cup fresh dill in 1/2 cup white vinegar and 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar. Cut 2 large cucumbers into chunks and put into a blender with a little water. Purée and strain through a sieve. Strain the vinegar and add the cucumber juice. Refrigerate.
CELERY SHRUB
Chop 1 pound celery, leaves and all, and blend with 1/2 cup water, adding more water as needed. Strain and mix with 1 cup sugar and 1 cup apple cider vinegar. Shake well and refrigerate. Shake intermittently for a day or two. Strain. Add seltzer for homemade celery soda.
Fudge Pop Perfection
By KIM SEVERSON
Recipe: Frozen Fudge Pops
Rosé Wine to Drink This Summer
Eric Asimov
DOMAINE DE TERREBRUNE BANDOL ROSÉ 2013, $30
The rosés of Terrebrune are substantial yet graceful, made with about 60 percent mourvèdre, along with grenache and cinsault. Unlike the operators of many Bandol estates, which harvest their rosé grapes on the early side to preserve freshness, Terrebrune’s proprietor, Reynald Delille, wants very ripe mourvèdre for his rosé. You’d think this would result in weightier wines, but the 2013 is taut and fresh with great minerality. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
CHÂTEAU STE. ANNE BANDOL ROSÉ 2014, $27
Both in the vineyards and in the cellar, Ste. Anne works as naturally as possible. Most of the best Bandol producers rely on ambient yeast to ferment their reds, but very few do so for their rosés (preferring to inoculate). But Ste. Anne does. It also, unusually, does not add sulfur to block the so-called malolactic fermentation, in which taut malic acid is transformed into softer lactic acid, adding a bit of sulfur only before bottling. Nonetheless, the rosés are gorgeous, fresh and long-aging. The 2014, available in June, is mostly mourvèdre, with a bit of cinsault and grenache, and is lovely, with mineral and licorice flavors that linger. (Zev Rovine Selections, Brooklyn)
DOMAINE TEMPIER BANDOL ROSÉ 2013, $44
For Daniel Ravier, who manages this famous estate, rosé is a balancing act. “You want richness, but not fat,” he said. “You want structure, but not tannins or too much acidity. You want aromas, but not too much color.” Indeed, the thrill of good rosé is in the balance, and Tempier’s rosés walk a fine line. After a year of age, the 2013, 55 percent mourvèdre, with grenache and cinsault, is savory, with the characteristic mourvèdre flavor of licorice and an underlying mineral flavor, yet still fresh and zesty. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
CHÂTEAU SIMONE PALETTE ROSÉ 2013, $65
Unlike most Provençal rosés, which rival one another to see how pale they can be, Simone’s is a vibrant cherry color. It’s intended for aging; the proprietor, Jean-François Rougier, said that it is best at five or six years old. It is made primarily of grenache and mourvèdre, with smaller percentages of cinsault, syrah and carignan, and aged in large barrels. The ’13 is pure, substantial and deep, with light berry flavors and great finesse. “You should not drink it too cold,” Mr. Rougier said. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York)
CHÂTEAU DE PIBARNON BANDOL ROSÉ 2014, $30
The Pibarnon rosé is about 60 to 65 percent mourvèdre, with the remainder cinsault. Unlike most Bandol producers, Eric de Saint-Victor, the proprietor, prefers not to use grenache, which he said would add too much fruit and alcohol to the rosé. Pibarnon’s unusual terroir, a combination of blue marl and limestone, yields a wine that is powerful yet graceful. The 2014 offers chalky licorice and saline flavors with a refreshing bitterness. Mr. de Saint-Victor recommends Mediterranean dishes, particularly rouget or sea urchin. (Skurnik Wines, New York)
CHÂTEAU PRADEAUX BANDOL ROSÉ 2014, $30
I love Pradeaux, which clings determinedly to its old-school ways. As with its monumental Bandol rouge, Pradeaux does not remove its grape stems for the rosé, adding structure and complexity. “We produce rosé to be a gastronomic wine, not just an easy wine,” said Étienne Portalis, whose family traces its stewardship of the estate back to 1752. The ’14, 70 percent mourvèdre, is rich with licorice and mineral flavors, long and deep yet fresh and refreshing. A delight. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant)
CLOS STE. MAGDELEINE CASSIS ROSÉ 2013, $40
With terraced hillside vineyards adjoining the Parc National des Calanques, and an Art Deco manor house abutting the Mediterranean, Clos Ste. Magdeleine is one of the most idyllic estates I’ve visited. Its wines are pretty wonderful, too. The rosés are quite different from those of Bandol and Palette. They’re more delicate and won’t age as long, but they are not ephemeral, either. The 2013, made with 40 percent each of grenache and cinsault, with 20 percent mourvèdre, is light, pale and fresh with a surprising salty edge. Look for the 2014; it’s even better. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
