Put a Lid on It

[lsanderson]

By SAM SIFTON
Published: February 18, 2009

There may be no finer deep-winter dish than the British meat pie, though arguments rage over what the term even means. Steak and kidney. Chicken and ham. Game birds and ox tongue. The chef Fergus Henderson, whose St. John restaurant in London is a kind of beacon of British culinary excellence, a place where clichés about sodden English cooking wither and die, said recently that his cooks are working on some eel pies. If they end up containing bacon, they would certainly qualify, and they might even be delicious. More

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