Food

Aug. 20th, 2008 06:23 am
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No-Alcohol Refreshers That Rise Above Mimicry
By MELISSA CLARK
Published: August 19, 2008

OF everything on that long list of no-no’s during pregnancy, there’s nothing I pine for more than the sweet sunken cherry and icy verve of a rye manhattan. Or the minimalism of a gin martini, the sweet-tart balance of a sidecar. ... Link

Pomegranate, Lime and Tonic
Juniper and Tonic
A Cherry Tale
Faux 75
Peach and Passion Fruit Smash
The Louisville Sling


FLEETING TREAT Homemade tomato jam will keep for about a week.
By MARK BITTMAN
Published: August 19, 2008

OVER the years, I’d been served what people called tomato jam, but it was never so thrilling that I was motivated to figure out how to produce it myself. Link

Tomato Jam


PREPPING FOR PORK At La Hacienda in Southampton, N.Y., posole garnishes await a varied group of customers.
By JULIA MOSKIN
Published: August 19, 2008
EAST HAMPTON, N.Y.
WHEN Bruce Damark took over his family’s deli in 2000, he didn’t realize how bitter plantains and empanadas would taste to his neighbors.

Small food businesses like Damark’s have always struggled in Long Island’s beach towns, with too many customers in the summer, too few in the winter. And Mr. Damark found he had a new problem: the women who worked at the counter were openly hostile to the increasing numbers of Spanish-speaking customers, he said, sending them to the back of the line and pretending not to understand their orders. Link

Seafood Cocktail in Spicy Red Sauce (Cóctel de Mariscos)
Steak With Colombian Green Sauce (Carne Asada)


In Napa, Some Wineries Choose the Old Route
By ERIC ASIMOV
Published: August 19, 2008
RUTHERFORD, Calif.
“GREAT DIRT ...” John Williams owns Frog’s Leap Winery in Rutherford, Calif.

AFTER a tour of his vineyard here in the heart of Napa Valley, and an eye-opening tasting of his Napa and Rutherford cabernet sauvignons, I sat down to lunch with John Williams, the proprietor of Frog’s Leap. Perhaps he had been inspired, too, because in a fit of possibly foolhardy exhilaration he opened a bottle of rare wine.

It was a Napa icon, a 1959 Inglenook cabernet sauvignon, made by John Daniel Jr., one of the pioneers of California’s modern wine industry. The wine, graceful yet assertive with elegant floral, mineral and herbal touches, was sublime, easily one of the best older Napa cabernets I’ve ever had.

“I want to make wine this good,” Mr. Williams sighed.

He’s on the right track. Link
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