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[lsanderson]

Food: Recipe Redux
1989: Potato, Shiitake and Brie Gratin
By AMANDA HESSER

With Stichelton and Garrotxa now at our fingertips, it’s hard to remember why we were all once so smitten with Brie. In France you can find handsome specimens of Brie de Meaux, with downy rinds and buttery centers. But here, the cow’s-milk cheese tends to resemble silicone grouting. Which may explain why in the 1980s we were quick to wrap it in puff pastry and bake it. Everything goes down easier melted and warm, chased by a river of wine. More

Journeys | The Jura, France
A Festival to Celebrate a Fabled Wine
By ANNE GLUSKER

EVERY year, in the depths of winter, the newest vintage of a little-known wine is unveiled in a weekend of festivities in the Jura mountains of eastern France. The Percée du Vin Jaune — literally, the piercing of the yellow wine — marks the opening of the latest batch of this cult wine, whose minerally taste some compare to sherry. Busloads of wine lovers arrive from all over Europe, with some 50,000 expected at this year’s event, which will take place Feb. 2 and 3. The atmosphere varies from party-hearty (visitors receive a glass to use for wine-tasting, and a cord from which to conveniently dangle it from their necks) to serious oenophilia. More