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In a Tortoise Tale, Rabbit Wins the Day
By ALEX WITCHEL

IT’S fall again, and not a moment too soon. Though no one loves summer in the blissfully empty city more than I do, I drank my own Kool-Aid last month when I read one of those pieces about August’s being the perfect opportunity to try restaurants usually too fabulous to accommodate mere mortals. Before I could stop myself I snagged a table for four at Perry St. at 8 p.m. on a Monday night.

As a rule, I try never to go to a restaurant when it’s new; I’m a firm believer in allowing time to smooth out the rough edges. And giving a fabulous place a chance to come down to earth is a strategy that has worked before. Call me crazy, but watching models and celebrities pretend they’re not being ogled as they parade to and from the sidewalk for a smoke interests me not at all. Since Perry St. has been open for two years now, I figured it was safe. More

Recipe: Spaetzle with Corn, Peas, Braised Rabbit and Tarragon
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